What are some ideas of squaring your workpiece on spoilboard to ensure it is straight
Thanks
Mike
I made a grid with a Vbit. 2 inch seperation. Or you can use the laser.
I attached a guide that is removable. However I normally leave it in place. I usually use a 3/8 inch pine board to make the guide. I then trim the edge with a profile pass cutting the guide parallel to the X access. Then when mounting my work to the waste board I just but my work up to the guide.
If I remove the guide or it gets damage I just trim it parallel to the x to reinstall or repair it.
This is an example of what I use.
Mike
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I’ve used both @MyersWoodshop fence on the table, as well as looking at the dog holes with bench dogs from RedDogWoodcraft on Etsy. I just got finished carving that, when QCW was announced. I think I’ll use the MyersWoodshop one for a while longer and tattoo it a little more, switch to the threaded insert/T-Track/Dog hole scenario, then QCW.
Like Cesar mentioned, I cut a grid with my v-bit. Tilt your work piece at an angle and rest it inside the v-bit groove so it’s aligned with the grid, then carefully pivot it down to the table. It should be square, assuming it didn’t move. And as Mike mentioned, I also install a fence as an alternate method, but I usually remove the fence once the work piece is glued down to help avoid cutting into my fence.
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Can also put in dog holes, and use dowels as registration points(red dog woodcraft, etc)
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