Here’s a newly released video showing the outcome of using a Onefinity and VCarve’s moulding toolpath to make raised panel doors.
It takes you thoughtfully through the steps of using VCarve for a raised panel door.
I find it to be very well done and shows a great use of the Onefinity CNC integrated into the workflow of a workshop producing furniture.
I just stumbled across this guy as well. He’s given me some great ideas on something I was stalled out on. Glad for guys like that putting the knowledge out there.
I like JR’s style and presentation a lot. He is applying the CNC in his workflow in his shop. This particular video helped me a lot.
I think he is now focusing on capturing more of that on his channel. I am hopeful that he gets enough response from these efforts that his channel grows and he keeps it up.
Interesting but I doubt most would make a raised panel door that way. Normally the frame is made with the stick and cope technique. The raised panel is made from a separate blank of wood. In his method it looks very slow and the wood grain will show it’s done in an unusual way. It would be fine if it’s going to be made of mdf and painted.
A much faster way would be to just use a raised panel bit. Raised panel router bits are designed for use in a router table. They include a bearing that rides along the end of the wood panel. The problem is some woods love to splinter so you can only take thin passes (then raise the bit up in the table and then take another pass). It can take multiple passes to get the correct profile.
To do it on the 1F you need to hold the wood down. You can’t use something like the oops clamps because all the edges must be unobstructed. A vacuum table is what a professional shop would use. Without a vac table the best way I could see doing it is with 1/4" wood pushing up against the panel. Two opposite sides could be mounted down while the other two would need to be a cam style clamp.
I plan on making raised panels but here’s what’s stopping me, guts. High quality raised panel bits are expensive. To use one in a 1F you need to remove the pilot bearing from the bit. If you don’t have a vacuum table you also need to grind the part of the bit that holds the bearing in place on the bit. Once you do that you have made the bit unusable in a router table without a fence. With a fence it can no longer cut curved edges.
Sooner or later I’ll buy one of those cheap yellow bits off of Amazon and modify it and give it a try. I just try it. I’ve found that the cheap bits like to splinter the wood more than the expensive ones.
Alex, I hear you. Your rodeo and you can ride the pony you like! I wish you luck on using panel router bits in the OF. That may get exciting real quick
I am glad to learn more about moulding toolpaths since they are more versatile than just raised panels.
On the raised panel issue, I own a real deal shaper plus a Freud raised panel shaper cutter set (stiles, rails, and panels). I recenty repaired a raised panel shutter on my house and was reminded very quickly what a PITA it is to get all those cutters set up for a small job. I have owned a shaper for years and never had the urge to use router bits for raised panels.
I often forget that most people who buy a 1F don’t have $25k worth of woodworking equipment. I didn’t even talk about a shaper because most here will never own one. Mine has a power feeder on it so there’s really no reason to try and make raised panels on the 1F for me. It’s just a challenge I want to do. The biggest issue with the shaper, IMO, is the cutters. Good ones just cost too much for one off project.
I can’t imagine what life would be like without a table saw (or slider), a large band saw, A wide bed jointer, and a large planer when it comes to making stuff on the 1F. It’s nothing for me to pull a rough cut board and in a half hour have it glued up into a panel for the 1F. It usually takes longer to design a sign on my laptop than it does to make the blank.
I’m in the process of designing a cheval mirror that I’ll cut the oval mirror frame and the support to hold it up. I’m just waiting on the wood to condition itself to my shop. I’m going to use a double cove and bead bit on the router (since I don’t know how often I’ll use it) table because I’m going to cut the outside, inside, a pocket for the mirror, and a pocket for a plywood backing for over the mirror. Since I’m making the cuts on the backside of the frame I would have to flip it over, align it exactly in the same place, and securely hold it down or the cove bead detail wont look right.
Totally agree @Dr-Al… My roots are in woodworking so that is my starting point for the 1f. Some projects here pain me from a wood movement and standard practice perspective but hey… If it is the tool they have and they make it work… Good on them. I think there are some great options for panels using the 1f like doing decorative carving while you do other things. That said I will still insert the panel in a cooe/stick frame. I don’t care for the single board false panel look myself.
Dr Al, I think you missed the point of the video. This gentleman doesn’t use panel raising bits at all, he calls for a 1/4 inch ball nose bit to carve any shaped panel you wish.