Vertical mounting jig for QCW

Hi Mark and Jenn,

I’d love to see a vertical mounting jig offered by Onefinity for along the Y axis on the QCW(which means it’ll work for Journeyman as well as Woodworker). This would come in very handy, especially if there could be a way to index between them for mortise/tenon operations, or other operations. If not, I’ll have to look into designing something that can handle the stresses of milling vertically. I had planned on doing this separately, with a drop down as part of my regular table. I think the QCW could present some unique opportunities for additional accessories and jigs. I’d love to hear other peoples ideas.



Hi Jared and team Onefinity,

I have been working on modeling one of these for my QCW frame. Im designing it for 3/4" plywood (0.74") but I could easily adjust it for others if people are interested. In order to keep the whole thing rigid and the vertical surface securely at 90 degrees to the x axis it will be tab and slotted together. I have horizontal dados for t tracks, and dog holes arranged for vertical mounting along with a series of dog holes every 5 degrees for angles from 5 to 45 degrees. At the moment is is only an 18" wide surface but if it all works out at this scale I could potentially make widen it to 32" and use the entire Y cutting length. Right now it is 4 pieces that can be milled from one side.

here is an image so far:

My QCW frame sits on two leveled cabinets with a large space between them allowing for this jig to drop in on any of the gaps between the t-tracks in the frame. I’m thinking I will place it in the gap closest to X0. A smaller one would be more removable while a wider one would probably be more of a permanent fixture.

Let me know what you think and if you have any suggested additions to it. I hope to be cutting it out soon.


Hi Dakotah, I’ve love to see your plans. Will this work for both the quick change from above and below?

First I really like what you are doing… so please understand the following:

  • I am an engineer, so I immediately look for failure modes
  • I believe criticism makes a design better

My plan would be to have it permanently mounted. With the vertical face NOT extending above the spoilboard. Use a removable clamping face to extend up past the spoilboard.

The clamping face … well let’s face it … it is a consumable item as mistakes are made in the joinery. Possibly use 1/4 gage pins for alignment between vertical and removable faces.

How do you insure the top face of the spoilboard is perpendicular to the vertical face? What if you used a 1/4" gage pin as a hinge (yellow dot), Then on the bottom use a slotted brace and star knob to adjust vertical.

Hi CandL,

Thank you for your feedback. I agree that criticism and dialogue leads to better design.

I should have posted this exploded image along with the other one. I think this addresses the perpendicular question.

The 2 sides are tab and slotted in place with the vertical face. They are blind slots so that is why the are not seen on the first image. I did end up cutting this out yesterday in plywood and it is very sturdy especially when all the cutting force will be applied at the top of this fixture. I used a digital angle finder and I found that there was a 0.1 of a degree off of 90. It was a very rough cut with a chip-breaker bit and no glue was used a this point (just doing a fit test) so I don’t know if that would be improved or not.

Your solution would work too. It would allow you to fine tune the jig to be exactly 90. However would this also allow it to migrate from 90 over time meaning you would need to constantly check it?

I made the vertical face extend above the waste-board because I was thinking it may add options for clamping with any machining occurring above it. However it does pose a potential hazard for running a bit over it on accident. I think you are right and that it is not necessary.

I think threaded inserts may be a better option than dog holes for the vertical surface. That way you could have removable fixtures like you mention.

Please let me know if this makes sense and if you would still think the pivoting brace like you mention is the better option.

0.1 Degree … Well I think the saying is “Good enough for the girls I go out with”

I am assuming you want to do traditional joinery … ie Dovetails, Tenon etc

As a matter of usability … the vertical drop might be limiting … at least on my table will be less than 34" (then we hit concrete floor, and not gonna dig a pit for it)

So dovetail boxes of say 28" or less can be made

Hi Frank,

I believe it would work with both the above and below. I have the secure from above version and I assume that they are the same just the above version is threaded. I may be wrong. You would just have to remove the holes in drawing on the top plate.

Traditional joinery and I’m hoping to play around with ones only a CNC can make. Yes, the floor does limit it there but it would work for the majority of things. I think if you wanted anything longer you would have to make a way to mount the router on its side. I can imagine it would get complicated in the drawing.

It worked! Here are some images and a link to download the instructions, dxf, and crv files. I made it fixture so it can mount under your table allowing you to maintain your waste board surfacing operations. It is especially easy if you have a QCW frame.

A test


Dakotah, could this be mounted anywhere with the QCW ? Like on an end? I just ordered a Journeyman and I’m trying to figure out if I need to design and build my own table or if I could buy their mobile table and QCW then add something like your design.

Wow Dakota, this is awesome. When I built my table, I made allowance (ie hole in the table top aligned with one of the QCW sections) for something like this, but have not made it functional yet. This looks like a very good approach, I will have to test it out, and modify it a little for my application, but what a great design.

Hi Dave,

This can be mounted in any one of the spaces between the t-tracks on the QCW. The way I have it now is in the second panel from the left so I could mount my controller box on that left side cabinet. If you want it further back along the y axis you would just need to shift the mounting holes to match where you want it in the drawing.

Hopefully that makes sense, let me know if it doesn’t :slight_smile:

1 Like

Thanks, it has worked well for me so far. I have added an auxiliary clamping jig that extends above the waste-board. I’ll post an image here in a bit along with some through dovetail joints I made with it!