Alternative Router Options for Onefinity Elite Foreman?

Hi Everyone,

I wanna order the Elite Foreman with an 80mm mount size. I’ve been researching different spindle options, comparing cheaper alternatives with more plug-and-play options like the pwncnc kit.

Adding such kits would cost around 17,000 CAD. I’m wondering if anyone has tried using regular spindles that can fit into the 80mm mount, instead of VFD-based spindles. Any advice would be appreciated!

Hey Oli,

A “spindle” usually means a compact, cylindric asynchronous induction motor. Such spindles forcibly need a VFD, because they are driven by three-phase electricity with a variable frequency (usually 100–600 Hz). A VFD is in principle an AC-to-DC-to-AC inverter which creates such current on the fly (see also differences between hand router and spindle).

Some VFDs, like the Omron MX2 / Hitachi WJ200, also include support for synchronous (permanent magnet) motor spindles like the DATRON Syncro spindles with which you can mill steel /very/ slowly with high touque, i.e. go down to 1000 or even 100 rpm.

There are also DC motors in a cylindric case, but you need a controller similar to a VFD anyway:

These DC motors can be called ‘spindles’ too and have their controller integrated:

Sycotec motor spindles → DC motors

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Thank you for your prompt and technical response. Let me clarify my question.

The suggested router for the Elite series is the ‘Makita RT0701C,’ designed to fit in a 65mm mount. I’m curious if there are any routers similar to the Makita (with manual speed control) available in the market that can fit in an 80mm mount.

Hey Oli,

the Makita hand trim router fits in a 65 mm mount. It will fit into a 80 mm spindle mount only with a 65 mm to 80 mm adapter ring.

There are routers very similar to the Makita but with real ER collets, which has many advantages. Look for “ER11 router” in this forum.


Get the MakerMade router. After burning up 3 Makitas (he last one only lasting minutes), I got one and have never looked back. Never gets hot (or even warm), and the collet is fantastic.

Mine sits in a 65mm adapter ring in a 80mm mount with no problems.


Welcome to the forum!

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Hi Oli - welcome to the forum. I’m guessing you mistyped 17,000 instead of 1700?

As @Aiph5u stated, you can get the larger mount with the smaller router no issues. Gives a great upgrade path later. Or simple get the 65mm mounting and if you want a spindle later, get a 65mm version (or upgrade the mounting plate).


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Pony - Do you still like the Makermade router? I’m tired of burning up the Makita’s as well and not ready to put out for a spindle.


I REALLY like the MakerMade router as it never gets hot, and it comes with a LONG cord. Make sure you read up, and practice on how to use a collet. I also ordered a set of ER11 collets online so I don’t have to change the inserts all the time.

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Awesome. I see they are still on sale so I’m going to order one. Thank you!

I sure do not understand the logic of putting a “Router” on a 1F CNC.
The power, ER20 option, and quiet operation I think is the only way to go.
Lots of great options on Amazon. The noise level of a “Router” is very BAD.

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For some of us, a router is fine. It’s cost effective, works good and a good set of headphones does wonders! And the money saved buys a lot of bits!

Besides some of us grew up using a router, templates & bushings when the dream of a hobby cnc was only a dream in some young kids mind!


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And “After burning up 3 Makitas” does not sound like a cost effective solution. and… and no g code speed control… When I wire up my VFD spindle I do not want to pull out the cables and
re-adjust every time my routers “burns-up”

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All I’m saying is that for me, I’m completely happy with a router.

I rarely go over 70 ipm or deeper than .10 so it does just fine without a lot of cost. If Makita’s didn’t have such a horrible armature, they wouldn’t burn up. But a MakerMade works perfect. Perhaps someday I’ll want a spindle, but I doubt it.

I don’t do production work anymore. I did the rat race for 37 years in an environment that was harsh to say the least. We’d hire a dozen people and were lucky if 2 stayed till first break. But the people who did stay were dedicated and a fine crew and were rewarded with a job that didn’t have lay-offs or slow downs and lots & lots of OT. Sorry I got carried away.

Anyway, I’m retired. This is a hobby, and I enjoy it as such. I don’t have to have the best of everything to make it work, but what I do have works fine. If I’m busy and don’t fire up my CNC up for a week or two, that’s ok. And anyway, my forte is design. I may spend hours and hours and hours designing something that will only takes 20 minutes to run, but it’s a very good design with minimal movement and uses the fewest bits.

As far as speed control, if I wanted to adjust the speed on the fly, a router uses brushes so I could install a variable speed controller for it, but I don’t need it. I install a bit, set the speed and go.

You never want to disturb the wiring in the track unless you have to, which is why I shortened my cord and installed a plug-in on the Z. I can un-plug the router, loosen 2 screws, remove it and clean & oil my Z without anything being in the way.


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Hey @Woodpecker, hey Pony, hey all,

I share the opinion that a hand trim router as a milling motor in such a CNC machine seems like a joke and although I own a Makita RT0702C, I would never think of mounting it into our Onefinity CNC machine.

But everyone knows how a hand trim router is usually used. It is used for very short periods of time, and for small mechanical loads. If you can run your CNC machine so that these conditions are fulfilled, this is obviously the reason why many people are in fact satisfied with a hand trim router as a milling motor in their CNC machine. I would never let it run without surveillance though.

If you consider what monstrous beasts the Onefinity CNC machines are, sometimes using a hand trim router as milling motor seems to me like using a tracked loader to drive down to the bakery and transport a loaf of bread home in its bucket :slight_smile:

With a Onefinity machine, you could as well do things like this¹…


  1. (A 4.6 kW HSD spindle on a Hitachi WJ200 VFD roughing with a 8 mm roughing bit in black locust, one of the hardest woods in Northern America, 1/2" deep at 110 ipm)
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Harbor Freight Hercules is only $79 and I think is just as good as the Makita.

I was planning on installing a Makita but couldn’t find one for anything less that $150. After reading discussions where the router would burn out, I started looking at spindles. They are only about double the cost with at least half the noise. I use a Dewalt trim router quite frequently and hate that I cant hear myself think when using it, even with hearing protection. So I decided on an HY spindle for $340. figured burning out two Makita’s would pay for it, lets hope it lasts.

Yes you got it… VFD Spindle ~$350 and you save you ears big time, and yes two router burn outs and you are good. Also love the speed control.

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I just switched to a spindle cause I thought I wanted more rigidity. Kept getting chatter along the x axis. but it looks like that might have been a bad motor. Awaiting a replacement now.

I will say having the machine start the motor and set the speeds is nice. ER20 collet is nice. Bigger bits made the makita feel unsafe that feeling is gone.

The fire hazard of using a power tool in an unintended way was always in the back of my mind also. A few hundred dollars to not burn down the house w the fam in it was worth the peace of mind for me alone.

I’m happy with the new purchase. I would recommend it if you can. But I also understand it’s not for everyone. I cut aluminum, brass etc w the makita no problem before the spindle.

Just my thoughts.


I’m envious of anyone who can switch to a spindle. While cost is not that onerous to me (I could budget it if I do without one or two bottles of single malt :roll_eyes:) my problem is power. My entire shop runs off a single extension cord so unless I want to run the machine in the dark with no vacuum , a spindle isn’t in the works.

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