Automatically power up controller when AC is present

It seems my controller unit came with a momentary contact power button instead of a rocker switch like in all of the photos and videos I have seen. Since my unit is inside a cabinet, this is not ideal as it does not boot back up again when I switch the AC power off/on externally. I currently have to reach all the way into the rear of the cabinet to depress the switch.

Questions:

  • Is there a software fix I can make by logging into the Raspberry Pi? Most PCs have this type of boot power setting in their BIOS.
  • Can the momentary contact button be changed out with a rocker switch (or jumper)? Or has there been a hardware/software change that makes a continuously depressed button bad?

I could not find anything in the settings to control this behavior.

Sorry for the janky photo of the power button, it was taken upside down and backward in the cabinet.

I’m building my setup and have found myself in the same situation. I at least wanted to come here and look before I cracked the case open to see what is possible.

I posed my question to customer support, but did not get much back.

It’s not suggested to do it any other way than to push the button in physically.

I may end up using a little timer relay to simulate pushing the button (close the circuit) for <1 second on power up. But I’m all ears if you happen upon a better option.

Im sure you can switch it out to a rocker. Or if you plan on powering off a power strip just jump the switch altogether.

I originally had that thought, but I was hoping for some confirmation that there were no other changes made that would make a continuous switch connection bad.

For what it’s worth, I tried holding the power button down and turning on the strip to see if I could just wedge something against it, but that did not work. The controller did not boot.

Just a quick update for anyone who may need this.

This version of the board has a 4-pin connector for the switch instead of the 2-pin connector shown in the switch maintenance video. But this is not surprising since the new switch has an LED.

In my case, the wires are red, black, blue, and green. The blue and green pair (the two wires closest to the board power input) are the trigger for the switch (normally open).

I ended up using two timer relays in series, allowing for a delayed activation. The switch activates roughly one second after power is detected, then releases roughly one second later. So far, this is working beautifully.

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I think I would just relocate the switch. It should be easy to remove it and mount it near the monitor.

That’s definitely the simpler option.

I had already built the instrument cluster the way I wanted. Making it work without adding another button was personally preferrable.

That’s what I ended up doing. Ordered a molex connector from digikey and another momentary switch. Just removed the factory switch and harness, replaced it and used the hole for a gland for the new wiring to come out of.

I wanted a plug and play solution to extend the harness and keep the factory setup handy if I ever need to go back.

Molex kit

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