Personally, I think it’s strange that when you removed the motor, the coupler, including the red plastic bowtie part did not come out with the motor. I’ve removed the motors are handful of times, and the coupler has always come with it. It something binding in the coupler causing it to stay put? I would attempt to remove the coupler, and the red bowtie and examine that area for binding, and interference.
It may be helpful to try and swap the motor with another from the machine and see what happens.
If I were in your position, I think I would detach the X-rail from the Y-rail, so the left Y, the X, and the right Y all move independently. This might help eliminate any potential binding, and offer more clues to the problem.
If it hasn’t been suggested yet - make sure the dip switches on the motors are set properly. Something tells me you checked that ages ago.
Also, check the F1 screen, and make sure that the one of the Y axis is a slave to the other. It’s been a while, but I believe there’s a tick box to select. There may also be a setting that “inverts” the motion.
I know I’ve been away for a bit, behind a number non-related CNC matters. But my problems with my CNC have not all been solved. Believe it or not, at every chance I had, I was fiddling around with my CNC, to see how changes could be effectuated. The one issue that I DID manage to conquer was the binding of the B-rail ball screw. Now, that ball screw rotates just as the Y-rail ball screw does. Also, before, I had been getting a Masso status reading of High (red) for ‘B’. Now, it has a reading of ‘Low’. However, the ‘Y’ reading is still ‘High’ (red). I have went over the wiring, as best I could, and couldn’t see where anything was wrongly attached. But I’ll get back into it, tomorrow, and try to see if I may have overlooked something.
Just in case you didn’t know - the “high” and “low” reading on the F1 screen can be flipped. I’m not sure if this is exactly where you observe the “high” and “low” you described in your last post, but this could be your issue.
On the F1 screen, you can flip, or “invert” the input by clicking on the input, and pressing the spacebar.
Maybe you have the input inverted unintentionally all along?
It would also maybe point to a faulty limit switch sensor. Try unplugging a sensor, or swapping it with one from the X-axis.
It’s ironic that you mentioned what you did, regarding the flipping/inverting of those status notices. And that’s because I had JUST found some info on that, online. It advised to tap on each line, once, and push the space bar. And that was supposed to switch the status color from red/high, to green/low. However, my screen presses brought about no responses, at all. I am highly confused about things because, just a bit earlier (after defeating the binding of my B-ball screw) the B-sensor status was green/low. But, when I went back to my shop, after stopping for about an hour or so - and powering my machine back on, I found that BOTH Y and B sensors statuses were red/high. And again, the Masso screen isn’t acknowledging my finger taps.
Are you able to manually trigger the sensor by blocking the light path with a credit card or something? When you block the infrared beam, you should see the status on the F1 screen change. Do all 4 limit sensors act similarly?
I did get the opportunity to head into my shop, yesterday evening, to do as you had suggested. First, I went to attempt removal of the Y & B connectors, going into the back of the Masso, but was not able to disconnect them the way things were. I’m going to have to locate my appropriately sized Phillips screw driver, so as to remove the Masso - affording me the opportunity of dealing with the handling of those latches on the ends of those two connecting cables, which would allow the removal of same.
What I DID do (though I don’t know if it would reveal any causative concerns, to you), was to detach the Y&B rail side’s sensor connections. A look at the Masso screen showed that there were no HIGH/RED status readings in block locations 14/15 - nor anywhere else. Reattaching those connectors, however, brought those HIGH/RED readings back.
That’s good evidence from a troubleshooting standpoint.
Disconnecting the Y and B rails from Masso can be done quite easily by opening the Masso enclosure. There are 4 allen bolts near the 4 corners of the screen. Removing these bolts will allow the entire front, including the screen to hinge open. It can be done with the machine powered on (although a safety warning probably suggests powering the machine down first).
Input 14 and 15 will be marked on the orange Masso G3 controller inside. A small flat screwdriver is requried to unscrew the screw terminal and unplug the sensor.
My suggestion would be unplug one at a time to determine which of the two causes the HIGH/LOW discrepancy. Then, with the sensor unplugged, try homing the machine to see if the machine moves at all. Before the machine reaches the end of it’s travel, press the estop so it doesn’t just collide with the end of the Y rail.