Hoisting my onefinity jourenyman elite to the ceiling when not in use


Hello to all fellow woodworkers/CNC enthusiasts! This is my first post, but, I have benefited hugely from a lot of the experience here. So, I’m hoping someone can help.
My shop is a double car garage with a bedroom over top of it. I have a lot of equipment, my onefinity journeyman CNC being one of many large tools. The problem is with the CNC having the footprint it does, extremely limits my floor space, such that I end up banging my hips, knees, head (While picking something up) between the table saw and the CNC. I have nowhere else to place it. So, i was considering building a hoisting contraption (Pic included) to hoist it to the ceiling right above where it sits. Has anyone in this forum done this in their shop? My concern is weight load on the floor joists above the shop. I live in Ontario Canada, so any answer would need to be within Ontario building code. From the research I’ve done I found that you are allowed 30 lbs per sq/ft load for a dead load and 40 lbs per sq/ft for live loads. using the 30 lb number that would mean with a 72"x48" table constructed out of 2x1 square tubing and two sheets of 3/4" plywood and one piece of 3/4" MDF (spoilboard) and then CNC affixed to it would weigh and I’m guessing 500 lbs. And the calaculation for the 30 lb per sq/ft load would work out to 720 lbs of load that can be hoisted to the ceiling. So even at the cautious number of 500 lbs I’m well within the limit. I believe I am being overly cautious with the weight, it is probably much less. I think I read the journeyman weighs around 150 lbs, so that would leave the table weighing 350 lbs, which I know it does not because I can lift it off the ground holding it vertically to move into position. I would really appreciate any help with this matter. Also as a side note, i do have a securing system designed to safely hold the CNC overhead as a precaution to ensure it doesn’t fall on my head.

Here is one guy. Search of "ceiling " pulled this right up. Thought i seen this before. And thought about doing something similar but went with a flip top table instead.

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Thanks so much!! I’ll send a message! I currently have a flip top cart that I built from Youtubes Fisher’s Shop. But, I find it still too limiting.

Frank

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These values depend on a few factors and but would be the minimum allowed by current code, and apply to the floor above. These values are also based on a uniform loading over the area, if you are to attach a load in 4 points that would be a point load and may only bear on 2 floor joists instead of 6 (the floor sheathing does not provide enough rigidity to spread the load between joists)

If the structure is a concern to you then I would suggest finding the size of the framing members, the spacing between them and the span to get a calculated value for the specific construction - it could be much higher than the minimum code values but it shouldn’t be lower (unless the structure is very old and pre-dates codes or some other non conforming condition). Of course you could always consult with a licensed engineer in your area.

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I sent frank this pic.

I made sure every bolt hit a truss (in my case) to hang hoist. I added aluminum angle past one truss on either side, cut holes for heavy ratchet straps to use as a fail safe as it did worry me it might fall over time. It has never budged. Also aluminum brackets were heavily bolted into trusses. Straps were sinched up roughly to where it felt as though it took half the weight off hoist load.

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Depending on which way the joists run, if you could bolt a couple of lengths of wood or metal angle perpendicular to the joists that would spread the point loading.
It may be simpler to just put a couple of beams on posts to transfer the load to the shop floor. There are lots of websites that will tell you what size beams you would need for the span you want to use, you then would have no building inspection issues, a pair of 2X6 over a six or eight foot span would give you a good amount of load bearing. If you could transfer the weight load to a wall or better yet into a corner, you also then would have no problem with the bedroom floor capacity.

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In my shop the logical place to set the CNC would be on top of the table saw.

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So, i have some much needed info to share. I needed to replace a piece of plywood on the floor in the bedroom over the garage. When I pulled it up, I was surprised to see that the ceiling in the garage is not the floor in the bedroom above it. There is a space of about 18" between the floor of the bedroom to the ceiling of the garage. The floor joists in the bedroom are 2x8 spaced 16" OC. The ceiling joists for the garage are 2x4’s spaced 24" OC. I’m guessing they constructed the ceiling in the garage that way because there is really nothing load bearing on the ceiling other than the garage door opener a couple of LED lights and of course the drywall and insulation above it. The 2x4 ceiling joists span about 10’ and they run along the length of the garage. So looking at the sketchup drawing the ceiling joists run parallel to the short side of the hoisted table.

This drawing is not scaled. Obviously the ceiling is much larger than what is portrayed.

Thank you for the info. i just posted an update above of what I found when ripping a piece of plywood up from the bedroom above the garage. I appreciate your expertise. Hopefully bolting a few lengths of wood perpendicular to the joists will suffice in light of the new info.

Frank

I thought so as well, but in order to have 8’ behind the table saw, it is stationed right under the garage door opener, so i can;t raise the CNC to the ceiling at that point. That would’ve been ideal. My table saw weighs 500 lbs, so, it’s plenty sturdy for the CNC movement.

The house was built in 1998-99. I bought it when it was new. So, the builder built it that way. I was thinking I’ll put 4 or 5 2x6 lagged perpendicular to the ceiling joists and hopefully that will suffice to spread the load.

If you want a ready-made hoist, look at one like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MYX2KC4 They rate it up to 200 lbs though.

I’m using it for a wood box I made to go over my CNC table. I don’t lift the CNC, but the box is quite heavy as I also lined it with mineral wool insulation for noise/fire resistance. Seems to work well for me.

Thanks Atroz,
I saw this on Amazon, and a 200 lb limit is definitely not enough.
Frank

While you have the floor open, would it be possible to put straps from the floor joists to the ceiling 2x4s?. of course this will transfer some of the shop noises into the room above but will serve to keep the ceiling from bowing under load…
O/T reminds me of when I hung my bed using 4 ropes from the ceiling in about 1965. Was a popular destination at that time,

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I may be able to. I only took one section of plywood out, but if I have to I’ll take up more. I did notice though while taking a closer look at that space under the bedroom floor that the way it’s actually constructed the span is not 10’, it’s more like 8’ and half way through that span there are a few 2x6’s connecting the floor joists to the ceiling joists

Not sure if I am helping but I saw a video where a guy had an electric hoist in his ceiling and this might work in a retrofit way…just adding something else not an expert just wanted to give extra ideas…

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Lol! That’s the exact hoist I bought! Unfortunately, I can’t do that, but it is looking like if I bolt some lumber perpendicular to the ceiling joists and add some 2x6’s to connect the bedroom floor to the garage ceiling, it will spread the load out enough that I can safely hoist my Journeyman to the ceiling without issue. i just have some preparation work to do. Here’s hoping! Cheers! And thanks to all who responded to help! much appreciated.

Frank

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I hoist a giant kayak 300lbs on the roof of my garage. I would eliminate the double pulleys and run 4 wires to each of the 4 points and connect them to a manifold then a winch. It is the only way to make sure all 4 points lift at the same time when the weight is different. Also make sure to have some safety straps for long term storage.


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Thank you for the info. I was already re-thinking the way I was going to hoist it. I was also thinking of adding turnbuckles attached to the manifold to allow some adjustment if it gets out of level.

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I store my Poker Table up into my ceiling using a 10:1 boat wench – works pretty good








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