I’m having an issue iny vcarves where my straight lines come out a bit wonky. All the lines in the files in vectric are straight and they look correct in the 3D view but the carves just have so many weird things going on. I have no idea if this is user error, a software issue of a machine error, but any advice on where to start looking would be appreciated.
All files are made in vcarve pro 11.5
The crown shape is perfectly straight, but everything below it is the issue in the upper pictures. I can upload the gcode or whatever if that helps. It all looks good in the program which is so weird.
I’m by no means an expert. It appears to me 3 things. Speed, feed, and I can’t stress, a quality bit.
Bit is a nice Whitside and feeds are good(same I’ve been running for 3 years now), speeds on the bit are a tad high but my Makita doesn’t like slowing down anymore, hence the burning on the cuts which doesn’t matter on this one. I assume vectric has done something weird but I don’t even know where to look.
When is the last time you cleaned the ball nuts? Also it could be a bit of play or the bit being dull
I cleaned the ball nuts not too long ago, but I’ll check those when I get home. I might try retrimming it as well, just to make sure it’s straight.
Had a similar issue once before…turned out to be a "imperfect " bit. It would "gouge " in some places and leave a small step in other places. Switched to a different bit and it carved fine.
Doesnt look like a straight line…maybe a couple “jogs” in it.
I found an SVG of the logo and recut it last night that had 100% straight lines and the issue continued. It was a cleaner cut, but still had the same problem with the janky straight lines.
Typing out loud…
Was it deviating from straight in the same place on the different runs? In that case look in a gcode sim or browser view connecting to the 1F to ensure the gcode is running straight.
Did you flatten the board? How is it clamped? Could be bowing under pressure if not flat or clamped in a way that lifts a side/corner. there might be local flexing where the bit pressure in the corners pushes the board down more than on the straights runs where the bit is engaged less.
Looks like deflection or chatter to me. I’d slow down the feed rate or increase the spindle (router) speed. I also see a lot of tear out too, so that’s another indicator.
FWIW, using the same settings year over year doesn’t necessarily justify the settings. The machine, router, and bits all wear over time - what worked on a brand new machine or bit won’t necessarily work 2 or more years later.
0.02
-Tom
After putting in a new blade the problem still persisted. It’s definitely deflection, because if I run it twice it’s perfect. I’m currently running at 40ipm and my Makita is at 3.5. on the dial and only cutting .125 deep per pass. I am cutting maple which might not be helping much, but Ill try a slower feed maybe? Any faster on the bit and it will start burning again.
And I should clarify that I can’t slow down the router because if I go to far below 3 the power cuts out, even after changing the brushes.
All the cuts I made had the same issues in the same place, but if I run the cut twice it’s perfect. I have it clamped in with cams and I cannot budge it with my hands when it’s tight. I flattened the boards with my planer and measuring with a micrometer they are consistent in thickness (I always check now due to that same issue in the past) but like I said above, if I run it again it’s perfect. I’m only going 40ipm, maybe I need to go slower?
Ok, I think I fixed it, or found a good work around for now. For the vcarves I switched it to conventional instead of climb and that seems to have gotten rid of all of my issues having it cut on the other direction.
Hi.
From what you have said I would suggest an issue with one of two things
Either some play/float in the machine axis or an issue with chip loading which could be solved by a decrease in feed speed or an increase in spindle speed.
Only my thoughts
D
I’m glad you found a good solution. I’d say 40ipm is very slow for the OF. But it’s always a good idea to do a roughing pass and then a finishing pass for the best surface finish. I always question anyone who tests how fast and deep they can cut in one go – that’s great if you don’t care about the quality of the cut.
-Tom
I only run it that slow on small vcarves, after a few years of doing it I find they come out cleaner at slower speeds and it was only a 2 minute cut so no big time loss. I know a lot of people would blast me for not following proper chip loads, but there’s only so fast you can push a vcarves anyways. End results came out nice, it was a custom order so don’t ask me what that design is. 
