It’s just an aluminum project box I bought off of ebay. The HY VFDs have a remote panel that snaps into the VFD. For a few buck I was able to get an extended cable and remote plastic box for the remote (https://www.amazon.com/extension-control-Huanyang-inverter-accessory/dp/B07BS8HHJS). I just cut the hole for it and the water flow display. I have the VFD and several solid state relays inside an old computer case that’s below the table.
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What was the size of your spoilboard? I have the Journeyman and marked out the machine limits with the joystick and a pen in the collet. I made my waste board to match those dimensions. So it is 48x32. Should I have made the waste board smaller than the machine dimensions? Will I get the soft limit error when trying to surface it?
Thanks for the help!
Hey Aaron,
if you want a spoilboard that you can surface, you make it at maximum the size of the area you marked with the pen and added the diameter of your spoilboard cutter (=2 times its radius) to both measurements.
If you make it that maximum big, you will still have a little surface in the corners not machined. You can remove this with a hand plane. In the video they recommend making the wasteboard half an inch smaller than the cutting area.
Also for positioning of the wasteboard, the Youtube videos How To Position A Wasteboard Inside The Cutting Area on the Onefinity CNC and Flattening A Wasteboard On the Onefinity CNC show a method.
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Thanks. I had watched those videos a while ago but had forgotten about them.
Mine is 49.125 by 33.625 - the 49 measurement is because that’s how wide a 4x8 sheet of MDF is at my HD. MDF is oversized vs. traditional sheetgoods & lumber. The 33.625 is because I had it cut into thirds on the panel saw at HD and that’s the size of the piece I used.
I had to trick the 1F to cut it. I told VCarve it was a 1" bit instead of a 1 1/2" bit (and I upped my stepover so the passes matched the real bit size). I did both a pocket and an “on the line” profile cut at 0.02" which worked fine. I’ve also used the joypad to surface - ran it to the edge and then on medium speed with the router on, ran the machine all the way up, across, down & across again (use the lock buttons to keep it going straight in the X or Y direction with no diagonal movement). I used the MDI window to tell it to go the right Z depth before I started the up & across paths (G0Z-0.02).
Then I did my V-bit grid & numbers with my X/Y zeroed at the machine home. I also “drew” a v-bit at the extreme X & Y limits like running the surfacing bit to create a box around the limits of the machine on the board. You have to do this with the joypad because the controller will throw you a “too large” error if you want it to do it for you.
I can put my material on the box corner and it’s the same as the machine home. I can also align things at any 2" intersection of the grid lines (my grid is at every 2" on X & Y). I also have 3 circles - a 4, 8 and 10" circle to make centering round things easier but historically I’ve not used that as much as the normal gridlines.
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Well the good news is my first VCarve file and OneFinity Journeyman CNC cut worked! It cut all the way to the dimensions of 48x32. The interesting news was the cuts left waves on the mdf waste board. Not major waves, but perceptible cut lines I could feel when running my hands across.
Also, I guess my Y rails were a bit off level. Bubble is in the lines but touching the rear line, so front edge would need to be raised up just a fraction. My waste board is at the same level reading. If they are level with each other is that good enough, or do I attempt to level the Y rails and flatten again?
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Those are from a slight out of square router. Search for “tramming” the Z-axis and you’ll find a number of posts about how to do it.
Mine has a similar issue - I’m guessing something in the order of 0.00? based on my flattening depth (0.02"). They’re visible but not ones I can really feel with my fingers. I’m waiting on my QCW before I bother tramming. My projects aren’t so sensitive they need to get any flatter.
Dang. Somehow I knew you were going to say Tramming. I have read on it, watched videos on it and I still do not understand how to do it.
Hi Jim,
So, I watched more videos, read the process again, and made another attempt. From what I can tell the z axis mount is square and level left to right and front to back. I had to shim a fair amount on the bottom to bring it level front to back. I used both a level and tried the block of wood tramming method. Found the level more useful. I re-flattened the waste board and ran it front to back in the y-axis this time instead of left to right in the x-axis like the first time. I still got the waves going front to back now, but not as bad. I could see them, but not feel them as much.
One thing to note, and not sure how much of a difference it makes, but in my excitement of receiving the machine, I failed to double check my tabletop was completely level. The bubble is in the lines, but it is touching the back line going front to back. So, in other words, the front end of my table could be raised up a slight amount. Left to right it is completely level. The OF rails are also the same level as the table. The X-Rail is completely level, the Y-Rails are the same bubble touching the back of the line. My waste board is the same. So, will this make a difference enough that I need to take everything apart and level the table? I could be mistaken, but if the machine is level with the table, when I go to flatten the waste board, shouldn’t it take more off the back of the waste board than it does off the front because it is cutting at a set depth, and the waste board after surfacing, should be completely level irrespective of the table?
Thanks
Depends on how precise you want to chase this. If can see the flattening waves but not feel them you’re probably fine unless you’re chasing thous of precision.
You can also try shimming the router itself within the mount. You may find the addition of a small piece of aluminum foil between the router & the clamping mount on the side of the wave crests is enough to take them out altogether.
I was able to shim the router with aluminum foil on the bottom clamping mounts to make the router mount level from top to bottom and it still gave me the waves. Probably something I can live with for now. I cut grid lines in the waste board with a 60 deg VBit and they all look uniform depth across the board, so maybe it is good. I am mostly going to be cutting pockets and profiles on guitar bodies, so not flattening anything with it thus far.
Thanks
I’ve flattened soapstone and various wood with mine and any tool marks disappeared with the sanding (without making any special effort to clean them up). The guitar body I did shows the same thickness all around the body insofar as I’m able to consistently mic it. When I get my QCW I’ll team it tighter and see if it really makes any tangible difference in the end product.
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