Most of Clayton’s designs are available in dxf, and are sent by email immediately after ordered. Clayton’s a great guy, very prompt and generous with his advice. I can also highly recommend his e-books as a place to start if you decide to make a clock. I’d love to see more clockmakers on this site! ~Mike
As yours look so great, would you mind sharing your choice of timber and finish? In its construction, any tips on bits used?
In the same horological vein, I plan to make a vertical sundial in brass. I’m checking out diamond drag bit engraving at the moment (more tolerant of surface undulations which are inevitable in large brass sheets without surfacing). It’s very effective for quick Aluminium labels (my initial practice material)
Thank you for the kind words, Andy. For a propeller-head such as myself, nothing beats the first time one nudges the pendulum and watches the clock start for the first time!
Hardwood or Baltic Birch plywood works for the frame; everything else is Baltic Birch plywood. The Genesis was cut out with a 1/8" straight upcut bit. Before cutting, the wood had a water based stain applied, followed by gloss poly. It’s important that the teeth remain unfinished, as the extra drag from friction will prevent the clock from running.
Sundials are fascinating projects, I’ve made one or two. I’d love to have one here, but there’s no sun due to lots of trees. I’ve found that it’s worth doing extensive research before embarking on the project, as they need to be tailored to your specific latitude if they are to work properly. Do keep us posted, please! ~Mike
Jim, this discussion motivated me to dig out my plans for Nicholas Kratzer’s Polyhedral Sundial. I got them from Camden Miniature Steam Services in the UK many years ago, and they are still in the cat
!alog. It was built for Henry VIII. I think it would make a great and quite unusual CNC project! ~Mike
I’ve tried to look it up on the tinternet. But I couldn’t find anything useful describing its working purpose. Looks a bit like a cross between a butter churn and a sundial.
According to the plans, Kratzer built it to show that a sundial could work in any orientation. One of the dials will always be accurate, or as accurate as a sundial can be. Here’s a perspective drawing of it, and a picture of one built in brass. This would be a great project for a CNC in brass using a drag bit.
It is an excellent demonstration piece. I’m planning on a trip to Oxford where I believe the museum has one of his pieces.
I’ve been distracted with my vertical wall hanging sundial in getting the design right, which I’m doing in f360. The distraction is I’ve decided to have a go at writing a script that draws a sketch of the lines (well, triangles/rays for enclosed paths up to a boundary) for any declination, wall angle and latitude. There are online calculators for me to draw one by hand, but I’ve always fancied scripting in F360 and drawing closed paths for engraving to a boundary is a fag. Besides, the walk to the shed is a bit chilly at the moment, scripting I can do indoors.
Yes, my information is that his 1525 Polyhedral Sundial is on exhibit at the Museum of the History of Science in Oxford. How I envy you your wonderful UK museums! I’d certainly appreciate any pictures or other information that might be available, I might build it yet. I’m still thinking about a replica of Harrison’s H1 chronometer that I saw in Greenwich.
~Mike
I don’t understand how slicing of the xenomorph allows cutting “hollow” parts of the surface of the model. Wouldn’t one need to carve from the side any feature that is concave? An incredibly powerful tool like meshmixer could probably orient the model in space to minimize the uncuttable features but you might need 1000 slices not 10 or 20 right?