I’ve been meaning to update my waste board since I updated my machine to a spindle and found some black Valcromat I had left over from another job. I may add "go faster strips "to my bench as well.
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I had not seen that product before - thank you for sharing it and your build update. What was the job it was used for originally?
some cupboard doors, I understand Valchromat is used a lot to make furniture. there’s a lot of colours and its tensile strength is greater the MDF.
Thank you. I had visited the product page and it looks to be a very versatile material.
Interesting. Is it readily available? Does it come thicker, doesn’t look like it gives you a lot of room for error above your t-track.
It seems to come is various thicknesses the website says 8, 12, 16, 19,and 30mm but I’m sure I’ve seen 50mm somewhere. in all sorts of colours.
The bench isn’t finished there’s another layer of mdf to go below the valchromat and the t track gets sunk into that
Cheers
Dave
From what I have seen it’s more common in Europe. Definitely hard to source in Canada but I would think it’s possible to find in the States.
There’s a Dutch Woodworker on Youtube that uses it a lot. Makes me jealous when I see all his awesome workbenches and shop furniture. All the black Velchromat he uses looks really nice.
Edit: P.S. I love the Track Saw Clips btw. They are working out great.
Thanks Eric! I appreciate the support.
What is the cost of a sheet, and what is the advantage to MDF besides aesthetics?
Its very expensive a 8’x 4’ sheet 3/4" thick is approx $280
- It is moisture resistant
- It has greater internal cohesion and, therefore, higher mechanical strength
- It allows working in three dimensions - mechanization
- It has greater resistance to bending
- It requires less effort of finish
- It ensures a lower abrasion of tools
Regards
Dave
But in terms of a spoilboard, only your first and last points apply, no?
At 4x the cost; It is definitely superior in the correct application, but overkill for a cnc spoilboard, that is going to get carved up, imo.
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completely, its was just something I had left over,
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ahh, makes sense. I may have overlooked that comment. cheers
no problem Matt, you logic makes total sense
Dave
Hey Dave, hey all,
Valchromat, I don’t know. One more engineered wood. I like wood so much, and it has such outstanding technical properties, that i’m not exactly thrilled when you use it in a way where it first has to be shredded into a million little pieces before you even use it. But the real problem I see with all engineered woods is that you speak of the wood components, but don’t think enough about the fact that it now has a large proportion of components that are precisely not wood, but often very problematic synthetic resins, adhesives, etc. It’s not really wood at all anymore. However, these components are practically not mentioned at all in the marketing, but the material is treated as if it were still wood.
I also don’t understand why many people take MDF or other engineered wood when you actually want a wasteboard that is moisture tolerant and that doesn’t swell when it comes into contact with liquids. I think HDPE is much smarter and makes more sense than shredded trees that have been grouted with synthetic resin (and even then still swell when they get wet) (HDPE wasteboard example).
Just my thoughts on wasteboard material. You know I like your table very, very much Dave!
Hi Alphonse
I really really like this suggestion, I’ve never come across HDPE, but I am definitely going to look in to using it next time. I was a bit surprised they hammered the threaded inserted in I would have thought there must be something more suited for use in plastic, all be it I would still want to use something similar.
Have you any experience with its use.
How does it cut on the machine, do you need special cutters etc.
Regards
Dave,
PS where are you located, My company HQ is near Kunzelsau
I used an O-flute, fed relatively fast, full DOC with a 1/4in endmill. Be prepared for the pounds of rice grains you will have to clean up. 
Warning: Nothing will stick to HDPE. You might be able to hit it with a torch and it may stick, haven’t tried it yet. As of now, it’s mechanical hold-downs or a sheet of MDF pegboard, secure that via the standard hole pattern, and tape onto that.
I have the spoilboard files up on my grabcad if you are interested. Updated design version coming in 2ish months.
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very useful info thanks,
is it expensive compared to MDF
regards
Dave
Yes it is…
HDPE 1220 x 1220 x 19mm is around €265.
MDF 1244 x 2464 x 19mm is around €70 for 2x the material.
HDPE 48 x 48 x 3/4in is around $340 Canadian dollars.
MDF 49 x 97 x 3/4in is around $90 Canadian dollars for 2x the material.
(Prices found from a quick search and reflective in Canada)
Keep in mind you don’t need a full 48x48in sheet, just enough for your waste board.
If you are not cutting aluminum or your shop isn’t very humid, save the extra money. You can replace the MDF waste board many times before the costs even out.
Try plastic suppliers in your area, they might have scraps or at least a better deal than a general hardware store.
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As soon as I saw @Aiph5u 's suggestion of HDPE for a wasteboard, I hurriedly googled the products price and availability in my area ( Ottawa, Canada ). I’m familiar with it having used it for various projects where I wanted a friction free movement. One look at that price:face_with_monocle:
and I quickly decided this put a whole new vision on the concept of “waste” board! A quick visit to "Post up them failures " would give you a litany of horror stories of ruined wasteboards only being rescued by the relative cheapness of replacing them. I too have a love affair with real wood and a hard won loathing of MDF, but I can’t think of a better use for it than this.
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