Great work on V3.
For those on the waiting list, do you have a estimate when we will be able to order?
Thanks
This just keeps getting better. Very nice.
Another plus is you can move the Onefinity controller to a location where it won’t be exposed to chips and other debris that might affect operation and avoid problems such as the power switch issue.
I am looking at controlling a couple SSRs like this to switch power to the dust collector and router.
It says 40A but I believe they are rated at 10A continuous with the heat sink.
Hey Bob,
you can attach the SSR’s input side to pin 15 (tool-enable) and pin 19 (Ground) on the 25-pin I/O port of the Onefinity Controller.
The Controller will then switch the relay on if you enter “M3 Sx” (“x” is 1 or higher) in the MDI field or M3 is encountered in a program (and will switch it off if it encounters “M5”).
In the Tool Configuration Tab you have to set “tool-enable-mode” to “lo-hi” to get 5 V on pin 15 when “tool-enable” is on.
If pin 15 doesn’t work when entering a “M3 Sx” command in the MDI field, try to set “tool-type” to “PWM spindle”.
By the way this is the same way @satoer switches the router on and off when set to “auto” mode (with the same Onefinity settings).
My plan is to use the 4 relays on Satoer’s control panel to operate the SSRs. I don’t want to route mains power through those relays on the control panel. I’d rather use them to remotely control the SSRs with a 12v or 24v control circuit. Probably 24V as I have a nice Lambda 7.5A power supply.
Hey Bob,
you mean the onboard SSRs on the Panel aren’t strong enough for your dust collector?
It just comes to my mind you said you have many tools run on girly power 
in your workshop, that means double the amperes
The relays are rated 20A / 230V (But I wouldn’t go higher than 12A). There also a “snubber” circuit on the PCB to prevent relay sparking and electrical interference noise. They can handle the router without any problems directly.
In my experience, a mechanical relay is more reliable than a cheap SSR. I’ve killed 100A “rated” SSR’s with less than 16A. The annoying thing with SSR’s: when they burn, they keep the contact closed (most of the time). So, if you do want to use SSR’s, buy reliable from a know brand and a trusted source. The cheap Chinese Ebay SSR’s are knockoffs and totally unreliable.
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Hey @satoer,
ah you’re using electromagnetic relays, wasn’t aware of that. I use them more than SSRs too.
Hey Tom,
good to know.
Hey Bob,
I didn’t know you’re on the list
Electromagnetic relays have their own set of problems, mostly with those that are normally energized, and you can’t be sure of what state they will fail to either.
Mostly I don’t want to channel 4 medium to high amperage loads through the control box for long periods of time. How will those relays dissipate the heat of two or more loads greater than 6 amps for 4 or more hours of run time? They are situated fairly close on the board. I am thinking of including ventilation of some sort for the control box. Maybe just a small muffin fan with a filtered intake.
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In my experience, the relay’s do not get hot. The only thing that gets warm / hot, is the Arduino’s linear voltage regulator if you don’t use the recommended build in step-down converter on the PCB. If relays get hot, then there is probably some contact-point damage that resulted in electrical resistance.
But, over here we use 230V so the typical current is probably doubled in countries where they use half the voltage. I haven’t received any problems yet though.
I wouldn’t add ventilation inside the cabinet unless it’s really necessary. Just inspect the temperatures while / after usage. If it isn’t necessary, you are only adding unnecessary dust particles inside the cabinet when using fans.
Of course this does not apply if take air cooled SSR’s into account.
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Yes, for me limited to 120V power so double the amperage you are drawing.
If I added a fan it would be as I said with a filter on the intake so I’m not
pumping dust particles into the box.
Did you order a panel Bob? You know what, abuse the board. Even pump the amperage up to 20A if you like. (the relays are officially rated 20A even though I recommend not getting higher than 12A). If you destroy one of the relays I will send you a new mainboard free of charge.
It would be an interesting test, because I personally don’t have a device pulling 20A over here. Heck, the circuit breakers are fused at 16A 
No, didn’t order yet, but plan to. I never stated I would be running anything close to 20A. I doubt I would have anything over 10A. Right now I’m looking at the RoutER11 as my spindle and a dust collector with a 1HP induction motor that draws just under 6A.
I don’t plan to abuse it. I don’t have money to throw away by intentionally abusing the board or even by making an uninformed mistake. And I would never expect a replacement for something that was my fault. I guess their may be people who would, but that is not me.
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Hi @satoer, great work on V3,
I am on the waiting list and I want to know when will we be receiving the email to order the V3. Do you have a time frame?
Thanks
Got the email and ordered right away this morning! Very excited.
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Just got my kit today, that was fast! I’ve been slacking though and haven’t built the enclosure for it.
This is a high quality piece of hardware, everything is really well thought out. I can’t wait to start using it!
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@satoer Dang i just saw my email that i was next in line a couple weeks ago. Do I need to re put my name in to get back in line?