RELEASE V1: Remote control panel V1 for the Onefinity

Note: This is a personal project and not associated with the Onefinity company

After a lot of work I have finally finished the documentation and finished the first batch of 13 DIY units. Considering the enormous amount of response, these are probably gone fast. Don’t worry though, if the feedback of these units is positive, I will most likely create another (bigger) batch. But first I want to wait for the experiences of this one.

Because the Onefinity forum locks up this post after a couple of day’s (So can’t edit it anymore) I decided to build a complete website for the documentation and ordering. This way I can update the latest information.

This topic is for any questions or support regarding the remote panel V1. But before asking questions, please read the documentation. I tried to make it as complete as possible.

EDIT: Okay, the first batch is already fulfilled by a large margin. If you enquire now, you will be on the waiting list. There were so many requests, that a next batch is highly probable. But this will be after the feedback from the first users.

9 Likes

I watched the YT video but I could not determine if the joystick can move the spindle diagonally (X & Y). As you move the stick it appears that the spindle moves along X or Y, but not simultaneously.

I don’t know that it makes much difference just curious as to what moves the joystick can make.

It moves in any direction you point it at. If you move it to the top right, it moves diagonally to that direction (Just like the gamepad) But if you want to move only on X or Y, you can disable that axis.

1 Like

Looking good Satoer,

just filled in the form…can’t wait

Looks Great

Just sent in the form

This is very nice work indeed!

Looking forward to the next batch since I am still waiting on my full order from 1F.

That was the behavior I was expecting but I could not tell if it was operating that way watching the video. Thanks for clarifying this for me.

Same here. I guess I could order now and work on building it before the CNC Arrives but no way to test until it does so wouldn’t be able to provide much feedback until probably sometime in January at the earliest.

You can make the post into a “Wiki” and then you can edit it forever :slight_smile:

1 Like

I tried but I can’t. Tried this tutorial but I don’t think I have Trust level 4. Do not see these options.

Ah. I didn’t think to look. I just checked and you’ve got TL 1. I don’t think it needs TL4 - I think a 3 does it with standard Discourse settings. I can do it but only for my posts. I think TL4 lets you do it for someone else’s posts.

Hey all,

I explained it here the other day. The level which is required to make one’s own posts a wiki is 3 by default, but it may be changed by the site admin.

But once a wiki post is created, anyone with level 1 or higher may edit the wiki post.

The following users may turn their posts into a wiki post:
Onefinity Forum Users who have level 3 (Regulars)

To get to trust level 3, in the last 100 days…

  • Must have visited at least 50% of days
  • Must have replied to at least 10 different non-PM topics
  • Of topics created in the last 100 days, must have viewed 25% (capped at 500)
  • Of posts created in the last 100 days, must have read 25% (capped at 20k)
  • Must have received 20 likes, and given 30 likes.*
  • Must not have received more than 5 spam or offensive flags (with unique posts and unique users for each, confirmed by a moderator)
  • Must not have been suspended or silenced in the last 6 months
3 Likes

I’m very interested in getting a control panel and am planning how I can incorporate it into the design for my 1F setup. (I don’t have a 1F yet but am planning to get a X-35 Woodworker.) I have several questions.

How long are the DB25 and USB cables?

What’s the maximum load the relays can handle?

I’ve read that, because of electrical noise, the 1F controller and vacuum should be on different circuits; and also that routers generate electrical noise too, although not as much as vacuums. The High-voltage connection diagram shows the router and 1F controller on the same circuit. Is that a potential problem?

If the control panel is powered from the 1F power supply, can this potential problem be solved by putting the router on the same circuit as the vacuum (likely a 20A circuit), each still being switched by the corresponding relays in the control panel. Hitting the Oh Sh*t switch then kills power to the 1F controller, which kills power to the control panel, which kills power to relays. Would this work?

Hi Bob,

Sorry for the late reaction, I missed this message.

The cable of the USB and DB25 cable is 1 meter. But can be easily lengthed if needed. The DB25 cable is an two wire twin cable, and the USB is a regular USB mini data cable.

The relays on the V3 version of the PCB were rated for 20A/250V max. But I advised not to get much higher than 12A. The V3 PCB is currently completely sold out. And I have redesigned the PCB completely. I have not received any problems on the current relay design, but in hindsight I did not like the spade connector on the relays. I redesigned it to use beefy screw terminals, and by doing so I was able to choose out of a wider range of relays.


The new PCB features 30A relays, but the relay’s aren’t the limiting factor. It is the screw terminal or PCB trace now. I took the beefiest I could find (that were still affordable) These are rated 24A max. Also, because I use screw terminals, that are soldered to the PCB, I expect the weakest point now are the PCB traces. I designed the PCB traces as thick as possible, and doubled it (top and bottom). Also the bottom trace is solder plated to lower the resistance even more. But, it’s hard to estimate a hard current boundary that the PCB can handle. I would suggest not getting higher than 16 amp.

It’s hard for me to test this on this side of the ocean. Here in the Netherlands we are blessed with a 240V. The higher voltage, lowers the current drastically for the same amount of power. I don’t even have tools that draw 16 amps. Even the current breakers are 16A.

Anyhow, the vast majority of kits went to the USA, and I have not received a single complaint of burned V3 pcb relays.

I haven’t encountered problems with electrical noise. The relay’s are equipped with a so called “snubber circuit”, this prevents arching across the contacts and suppresses noise. But even with worn out router brushes (=more electrical noise) I did not encounter any noise problems. I don’t think other users encountered this. I didn’t get reports about it. The only problem I received is a very small leakage current from the snubber circuit. When connecting a low current led light, it might flicker in the off position. This can easily be resolved by cutting the resistor wire of the snubber circuit.

You could do what you described. (different circuits), but it is not really recommended to control an emergency stop indirectly through relays. The emergency stop is a double break connector. If you do want to use different circuits, you might use it as a single break for circuit one, and a single break for circuit two. But like I said, I have not encountered problems using everything on the same circuit.

4 Likes

No need to apologize. When do you expect that the next batch of control panels will be ready? Just curious; as I said above, I’m just in the planning stage at the moment and am figuring out how all the electrical connections need to work; so it will be quite a while before I’m ready to install it.

When I submitted my earlier post, I noticed that there hasn’t been any activity on this thread since Nov/21. Is there a more recent topic for posting about your remote control panel?

I asked about the length of the cables because I intend to have the 1F controller attached to one side of my table and your remote control panel on the other side (to keep low- and high-voltage cables distanced); so I wanted to know if the DB25 and USB cables would be long enough to reach.

I asked about the maximum relay load because I was really wondering how big a dust collector/vacuum the relays could handle. I haven’t decided yet whether to use a vacuum or something more like a real dust collector (like https://amzn.to/39FuN0E, as one post suggested). But 16A certainly seems adequate. (My Fein vacuum says 10A max.)

I like the new screw terminals shown in your picture above. Can you post a picture of the entire board, so I can see where they (and the relays) are located on the board.

I’m glad to hear that no-one has encountered any problems with having the router on the same circuit as the 1F controller. One less potential problem to think about. Thanks for pointing out that the emergency stop could be used as a single-break for each of the two circuits; I hadn’t thought of that. But, in light of your previous comments, separate circuits seem unnecessary.

It’s somewhat serendipitous that you mentioned the potential flickering of led lights, even though I hadn’t asked about that, since I plan to install LED strips (like RibbonFlex Home AC Dimmable White LED Tape Light Kit – 16 ft. (5m) – Armacost Lighting) inside my enclosure; so I might have been surprised by any flickering.

The screw terminal revision looks like a big improvement, though my panel build uses low voltage on those relays which made terminal insulation a bit more forgiving.

I still can’t say enough about the utility of your panel kit!

1 Like

I’m hoping between 1 or two weeks, but things keep pushing between it. So I can’t make any hard promises.

No, there is one older over here where I introduced my first prototype… Wel… didn’t expect it to be a prototype, it was just something I made haha. That discussion lead to the production panels. Side note: I personally still use this original panel without problems.
https://forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/onefinty-control-panel-remote-gamepad-replacement-with-lots-of-extra-options/

In my setup the Onefinity controller is near the panel. And I I needed to wind up and tuck away a lot of wire to get it neat. I expect most users have the Onefinity controller nearby that’s why I used 1m wires. But like I said, if it’s too short the length can easily be lengthen. Also it’s just an basic USB mini cable, you can find different lengths for cheap everywhere (probably in house :laughing:) Just make sure it is a data cable, not just a charging cable.

The relays are now on the right side of the board. As far away of the microcontroller possible. I need to take new product photo’s, I shall post them when ready.

Probably not, I had just one user with that specific problem. And I know that more user control lights with the extra ACC buttons. But just in case someone else had the same problem I added it to the troubleshooting guide. Last item, but needs to be updated with the latest pcb revision:

If I get questions I usually update the documentation if I think someone else could benefit from that information.

There are a couple of kits available. Haven’t had the time to update the site, but if you order one, you will receive the new V4 PCB. It’s pretty straightforward, don’t think the new layout will cause problems connecting the buttons.

Also some extra things not listed online are provided in the kit now:
• Inline fuse holder (for if you want to use the onefinity power supply)
• Fuse
• Heat shrink tubing

3 Likes

Yes, I’d like one. How can I pay for it. And what would be the shipping to Canada?

Bob Zarnke

Hi Bob, just order it in the webshop. If you fill in the adres you will see the shipping cost. The webshop calculates the shipping cost automatically based on a DHL plugin.