Does anyone have a suggestion on which rotary to purchase?
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/Engraving-Rotational-Tailstock-dividing-K11-80mm/dp/B07N2QQ6S5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2HWDXIQ6R260L&keywords=rotary%2Baxis%2B4%2Bjaw%2B80mm&qid=1701542721&s=industrial&sprefix=rotary%2Baxis%2B4%2Bjaw%2B80mm%2Cindustrial%2C135&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.17d9e15d-4e43-4581-b373-0e5c1a776d5d&th=1. I later put a 4 jaw chuck on it, and swapped the motor for the little 1.2Nm Masso motor.
Thanks, are there any more suggestions?
I believe most folks go with the one Adam references to, it also is the one 1F is using for testing, I also have this one it is pretty good for the money.
Pat
Where did you get the 4 jaw chuck from?
I got it here: Amazon.com
It was a pain in the ass to get the 3 jaw chuck off. There’s a few bolts and then it is just pressed on, but mine was very hard to get off.
@adamfenn28
I contacted Masso concerning this very topic. The response I got back from Peter at Masso was:
The 1.2Nm steppers have a current draw of around 1A. The 2.0Nm and 3.0Nm steppers require a higher amperage DC output power supply than supplied by Onefinity and are best operated at 36dcv. All 3 steppers use the same wiring scheme connection.
I don’t think so. I think you really need the 1.2Nm which you can only get from 1F.
Or you can buy the z motor with a brake and reuse the old z motor on your rotary.
That is, if you are using the same rotary. I tried the larger motors and they interfere with the jaws and potentially the stock because they are too long.
I’m not very concerned about the power supply though, even with the larger motor. I think you’d be fine with the stock one and worst case you’d blow a fuse. I suspect you could use a 4A fuse and be totally fine also. If you were really worried about it you could upgrade the power supply to a 450 and be super safe. But that’s not even a concern unless you want to spend more money or a more powerful motor than you need and can mount it on your rotary without interference.
The 1.2 fits perfectly with the 80mm chuck. If the 100mm fits it would be SUPER tight. I have t tried that.
The wiring is pretty straight forward. I could walk anyone through it.
Hey Tom,
you could re-use any open-loop bipolar stepper, but for connection to the Masso G3, you would need to buy an external stepper driver like this one, or this one for closed-loop functionality. Masso G3 supports all kinds of steppers and stepper drivers.
You can buy the 1.2Nm Masso stepper from Sherline. They use it for their mills and on one of the rotary axis setups that they make.
I bought mine from 1F.
Pat
These wouldn’t actually be closed loop motors thought, right? I think this would just fake the funk so you can use an open loop stepper, and it could still be in the wrong position since the motor doesn’t support the signals to communicate that.
That first one is the 100mm version of my 80mm. I hadn’t seen the second one. The motor mounting that way is great.
In the end, I suspect. you’d be fine with an 80mm version anyway, which would easily clear. They both use the same 65mm tail stock, so you’re limited to small diameter stock anyway, unless you raise your system up.
I used this cable the comms: 30-02485 Tensility International Corp | Cables, Wires | DigiKey
and this for power: Amazon.com
I ran both inside some nylon sheathing like this: Amazon.com
I used about 1’ of cable that is hard wired into the motor, and an 8 pin molex so that I could easily disconnect and remove the rotary assembly as one piece. My cable is permanently run through the inside of my table so I can’t easily just disconnect it from the back of the Masso.
I used heat shrink the ends to keep the connector’s boots squeezed tightly together.
You’ll also need a 2.2k Ohm resister and a 10k Ohm resister. I wired those both inside clear heat shrink so I could easily see what they were down the line.
It’s also cleaner to use ferrules like ( Amazon.com) to terminate the ends of your wire.
If you have the molex connectors, pins, crimpers and boots I think you’re set.
Tom,
How much adjustment room is available on your motor mount? According to the pics on Amazon, your rotary has a 350mm belt. If you had a longer belt (355 or 360mm), do you have adjustment room to slide the motor away from the chuck, rather than filing down mounting bolts?
Not sure if you’re using the same rotary as Adam, but the motor mounted in his picture would be able to slide and still tension a larger belt.
Dan
Adam, thank you so much for this detail, I think it’ll allow me (and a bunch of others, I’m sure) to have a much nicer installation when my Elite Foreman arrives and I try to get the rotary (same as Tom Wert’s) on the table in front of me working. At the risk of asking a dumb question, which wires require the “2.2k Ohm resister and [the] 10k Ohm resister”, please?
Hey Adam,
you are right, for closed loop functionality, you would need a stepper with an encoder, like these models, or attach an encoder as separate accessory if your motor has a shaft end at its rear like this one, where you can attach an encoder, or an electromagnetic brake.
The Elite motors have the closed-loop stepper driver and the encoder both integrated. I just wanted to mention that all these are different components and that you can attach all the different types of stepper drivers and motors to the MASSO G3. You just have to know that unlike the buildbotics controller, to which you can attach a bipolar stepper directly, on the MASSO G3 you are at the axis control lines level, which means “step”, “dir”, “enable” and “alarm” outputs for each axis, to which you first have to attach a stepper driver before the stepper motor is attached. And that theoretically, you can choose whether to use open-loop or closed-loop on the MASSO G3.
Alarm needs the 10k Ohm resistor, as shown here: MASSO Closed Loop Stepper Motors
The Enable needs the 2.2k Ohm resistor. Similar to the stock Elite configuration, I put mine on the motor end, under the cover.
1F didn’t follow the Masso recommendation for the Elite’s Enable/E-Stop wiring, and I followed their example when configuring my rotary, so every motor is similarly configured.
