I didn’t touch it when I removed it from the z axis (replaced with the brake motor), so it is still 400 like all the others. I will try 800 on all motors and update the F1 settings on all except A, leaving that at 4800.
Looks like it’s all good now, thanks for your help!
Adam,
The Masso documentation says the 10k Ohm resistor should be rated for 1/8W. What should the 2.2k Ohm resistor be rated for (1/4W, 1/2W, …), please?
I used a 1/2W. I had a box of 1/2W BOJACK resisters on hand.
And you might want of the boot halves: http://d.digikey.com/dc/mn-w0iJh4uEE_bUitNCuXmOASUNxIUHHNt2ANEnMXZ8GA1MEYG-Qb_aGNnuzQ1RSQyY6yyYadKr6OP5o2xeNVroQaO2wO1qNZ38QJYqZCcbAqCrZR4nPlWrttgDujZW3By5AIAzROgdB8cRVZQlqqg==/MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGOsRccLEOBanrEuhgYK4MRZbChP-hy6Z09fQ3nboim_Ydz8WK5JtJH6xvgvErtbcOfB1psI_I=
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Hi Adam, or someone else knowledgeable,
could you please check if my wiring looks
correct?
The four A axis cables S+, S-, D+ and D- are certainly correct.
I am not sure which input port to use for the ALM+, so right now it is in input port 24 although that is most likely not correct. The 10 Ohm resistor visible between the input 24 and the power.
I believe the ENA+ to be correct as well. The 2 Ohm resistor is under the black shrink tubing partially covered but the green tape.
Also the power cable (the connectors are on back order, so this is temporary), I do not want to mix up power and ground:
Is that a 10 Ohm resister? It should be a 10,000 Ohm resister. It’s huge compared to what I have installed. Also, the resister on the enable wire should be 2,200 Ohm, not 2 Ohm.
I can’t see how your enable wire is connected from this picture.
EDIT: I think I can barely see the resister connecting into the terminal along with the dark green wire.
Your wiring seems correct except that the resisters may be the wrong ones.
You will specify the A axis alarm input in your setup. It doesn’t matter what one you use as long as it’s not used for something else.
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Hi Adam,
Thanks for pointing the resister mistake out, I just ordered the 10K Ohm resister. The other resister is actually a 2.2K Ohm, it is under the black shrink tubing, so that one should be fine. I just stuck it together with the green cable.
I still believe the Enable to be correct, I followed your wiring example from post 86:
Ok, got it, I will configure the A alarm in the settings. I should be running in two days, once the correct resister arrives.
Many thanks for all your help, very much appreciated!
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Everything is connected.
When I press the home button I get an A motor alarm.
When I disconnect the a Molex connectors I still get the A motor alarm.
When I disconnect the 10k ohm resistor too I do not get an A alarm anymore.
My motor fuse on the elite power box was blown.
I assume you booted up with everything connected. Did you notice what lights were on on the motor at that time, before doing anything? What did the lights look like when you pressed E Stop? Then, when you released it?
From what I could see in your pictures, it looked right except the 10/10k ohm resister issue. We couldn’t see the motor wiring, or the 2.2k ohm resister.
When I did mine, I took baby steps and checked everythign with a multimeter as I went along.
It makes me nervous when you have bare resisters that could short against something. It’s much safter to put them inside heat shrink. Clear is ideal, so you can still see the stripes.
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From Masso manual - Best practice when wiring Masso…
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One other question I have about your wiring is if your polarity is correct to the motor? You should see +36V at the motor. I’m not sure if you have the wires reversed or not. Looking at this picture, I suspect you may have this end of the reversed, and if you put the red wire to the 36V terminal, you probably have it reversed. Please check it with your cable with a multimeter before connecting it to the motor.
Great thread! Lots of good information on here! I too bought the 100mm chuck kit from Amazon, where the steeper mounts to the side using a belt. I reused my original Z Azis Stepper and had no interference issues with the head of the chuck like someone discussed earlier. You mag just need to rotate your stepper 90°.
I need to finish my wiring, but with the help of this thread I think I’ll be successful. I was unaware of the resistor necessary, so I’m ordering those tonight. Aside from that I already bought and used a 4 wire for the axis inputs, now I guess I’ll use 2 more 2 wires, one for ALM/ENB and one for PWR/GRD. As I have additional 4 wire connectors to use, do you see any issues with running the PWR/GRD/ALM/ENB into a single 4 pin connector?
For reference the connector used for PWR/GRD on the OneFinity steppers are referred to as Mini Fit Jr connectors.
For my physical setup I’m using 2 20mm linear rails with bearings. I’ve laser cut plates that I’ve attached my chuck and tailstock too, which attach to the linear bearings.
Thanks for helping, enjoy CNC’ing!
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Thanks Adam
I am indeed a woodworker and have no clue about electrical wiring. So my mistake was that the wires of my multimeter were switched, which led me to wire the motor wrong exactly as you assumed.
Thanks Toronto, I added a shrink tube to the resistor. I will also get all proper connection plugs and rewire everything.
The A axis is indeed turning.
Awesome! I’m happy you have it working.
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What kinds of cutters are you guys finding useful for your rotary axis setups? What are you using for probing?
I still rough with my 1/4" end mills. I do the fine detail with this tapered ball nose: https://www.highcountrytool.com/product-page/0-5mm-tapered-ball-nose-8mm-shank
I probe Z off the top of the chuck, which is 35mm off of center in my case. I have the X set based on where I know the center is and I set the Y manually but I should probably just set G55 or something and be good with it, since the rotary doesn’t move.
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