And here is v8 (sold through Onefinity only)… with the standard also both sizes for the 90deg adapter.
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Once again, thanks very much Daniel! This gives me confidence that I have to room to play with at the front and rear by using the V2. I have also downloaded the Route One drag chain kit and, by the looks of it, it should be a nice fit.
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Hi
I also used a Kreg 44 x 44 bench frame but added on top a steel frame using Unistrut / Super strut vs. a torison box for strength and flatness. Worked great. Next was a going to be a 2 layer spoilboard board design but then they announced the frame. So I will create a temp spoilboard design till that comes in
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OF arrived last week while I was on holiday but I’d started the table and enclosure a couple of weeks ago. Final touches this week hopefully.
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What materials did you use for the enclosure? noticeable sound reduction? Really like that design good job.
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@PaquetteWoodworks
Thanks very much. I have to thank @rcincorona for the inspiration. The enclosure is 18mm moisture resistant MDF, the front windows are glass, side and top are acrylic, all are gasketed too. The base is a material called Trespa, it’s use for laboratory worktops, it’s really dense, chemical resistant and fairly flat. The legs are standard redwood. I haven’t had it running yet as I’m waiting in the electrical department to extend the router cables, and I’m in holiday for 2 weeks, but noise reduction was a big thing for me.
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What is the prime reason for an enclosure?
Noise or dust
Considering an aluminium tube frame with fabric that folds - kinda like a convertibla car roof
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@Squared Erik could I ask how you are securing the insert to the rest of the table? I would love to see your finished setup. I really like your design. 
Hey John,
I think with an enclosure you may well reduce dust and noise in the room where you operate the machine, but you will not completely get rid of it. I am thinking about it since I ask myself what I can leave in the room even with an enclosure around the machine and a good dust collection system.
But I think the main reason for an enclosure would be injury from flying chips, especially for your eyes, and also safety of automatic switching off when enclosure is opened. This could be more applicable with faster spindles (or should I say, spindles that hold their speed when under load, unlike hand routers), or when milling metallic material, but since I know the dangers of chips flying around for your eyes, I would not risk anything. Personnally I would at least always wear protective glasses
Here I can show you an excerpt from my spindle’s manual:
Use machine encapsulation!
The high speed of tools up to 24,000 rpm means there is a risk of injury from flying chips or the tool bursting. Fragments reach high velocities and can sometimes cause serious injuries. A separating protective device (machine encapsulation) must therefore be used that protects against flying chips and debris and also has a safety switch that disconnects the frequency converter or the motor spindle from the power supply on all poles as long as the encapsulation is not closed.
If you use Makita’s Hand Router RT0700C/RT0701C instead of a spindle, surprisingly, Makita says nothing in their manual about wearing protective glasses. Dewalt D26204K says to wear eye protection as well as ear protection. Makita just says:
- Some material contains chemicals which may be
toxic. Take caution to prevent dust inhalation
and skin contact. Follow material supplier safety
data.- Always use the correct dust mask/respirator for
the material and application you are working
with.
- Wear hearing protection during extended period
of operation.
Noise
The typical A-weighted noise level determined according
EN60745:
Sound pressure level (LpA): 82 dB (A)
Sound power level (LWA): 93 dB (A)
Uncertainty (K): 3 dB (A)
Wear ear protection
Noise is not surprising when using hand routers, since they (and most hand-held tools for one-phase connection) are a Universal Motors with Carbon-brush Commutators which are very loud. What is called “Spindles” instead are Asynchronous Motors that have no commutators.
Btw: Funny, the Makita is not allowed to use it in a CNC Machine:
- Do not leave the tool running. Operate the tool
only when hand-held.
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For those of you who constructed tables from wood and have either sheets or a torsion box on top to which the 1F is attached, how did you attach the top to the underlying structure? Specifically, I am concerned about wooden legs/stretchers and wood movement warping the surface to which the 1F is fastened…
I screwed my top directly into the 2x6’s that are supporting the top. I also laminated a 2nd sheet of MDF for the top - so I have 2 sheets glued together for my top. Just re-surfaced after 6 months of it sitting there, and the entire table was within .001 of flat on the resurface.
I might be more concerned with just a single sheet of MDF - but 1.5" isn’t going to bend very easily. A torsion box top would also be reliable.
Remember that the top just has to stay co-planer with the 1F - it doesn’t matter if the entire thing is 5 degrees off level - as long as it is all off together. If a back stretcher swells, and moves the 1F and the top the same distance, you’ll still be fine.
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Got the frame of my table complete, simple 2x4 and 4x4 construction. 60" W x 49" D. I’m hopefully receiving my machine in the next week or so (#16718). I’m planning on going with 3/4" MDF for the top, then another sheet inside my enclosure, and then there will be the spoilboard. You guys think the should be sufficient stability wise?
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For my modified Fisher portable, I assembled a torsion box with the internal structural matrix glued and screwed (Titebond III & 1 1/4” pocket screws) to a 3/4”x48”x47” sheet of maple plywood. Clamping of the matrix internal cross members was accomplished by cantilevered plywood beams, center blocks and screw clamps. Each section in the pic was further subdivided by 3/4” ply cross members for a total of 24 structural cells in the torsion matrix.
Once the glue cured a day, the opposite table sheet was glued, similarly clamped (thank you Archimedes) and fixed with 1 1/14” brads. This surface is the alternate work surface opposite the OF surface.
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love the setup. My new table will be a torsion box like yours, need a new table as I have a woodworker and now upgrading to the journeymen.
Has anyone done a Fisher Table with an enclosure over the 1F?
I like the flip style table for storing the 1F vertically and the added work surface but will need an enclosure for noise and dust. My new shop will be smaller and it would be really helpful to do this. I’m playing around with some drawings to make it work but the total weight concerns me.
Ordering X50 Woodworker on Monday
Get some diagonals in there
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My advice would be to build a basic table first and get your 1F. Don’t spent too much right off and then determine what’s right for you. I didn’t need a folding table but sound was a real issue. As it turns out running a water cooled spindle with a cheap 1hp dust collector is quiet enough to stand in front of it and talk in a normal voice. It’s in my basement and if I go upstairs I can’t have the TV on (because I don’t have a cam to watch it yet) because when I do I can’t hear it.
As for dust, I have a cheap boot from Amazon that has a 4" hose connection and I get zero dust or chips. I mean none. Suddenly my big plans on a booth for my 1F have changed. I got lucky, sort of speak. I would of had my enclosed table built but I also have the journeyman upgrade on order so I just did a basic table.
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Agree. Give the onefinity a whirl on a basic table first. You may then want the onefinity to cut out your enclosure.
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@JRose Here is an example to go off of…How To Build An X-Carve Enclosure | Woodworking - YouTube
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