That looks great! Did you use any stretchers underneath the top? I just got the 44" x 44" Kreg base myself and am debating this.
I did add a notched 2x4 spanning the middle as added support. But the layered 3/4 is pretty sturdy.
What specifically did you do differently with the electric?
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Hi @AndrewBrown
Here’s the rig with the WW, dust collection, lights and drag chain/coiled power cord upgrade.
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Got my 2x4 basics workbench built for my OF. Easy to build as can be. Putting the poly finish on it took the longest.
Did my cable management ala @muddyfeet thanks for the great inspiration - I used some of the files as is and I changed a few to suit me (have the router not a spindle so I made a simpler attachment at the top of the Z tower.
Designing an enclosure based on the one by @rcincorona, All in fusion so far, haven’t cut the first piece of wood yet.
Got my touch screen and joystick on a laptop stand. Will do something better than the 2 bolts holding the joystick.
A few pics below:
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Do you have better images on how you did the wheels? I bought those plastic legs and I am unsure of how to put wheels on it.
@EdsCrafts I don’t have wheels on mine and from what I’ve seen you can’t put wheels on the legs themselves. I think some people have put them on the 2x4s between the legs.
@rcincorona - I’ve got a question regarding the piano hinge joint. Do you find yourself using that or do you open up the whole side at a time? I’m debating if I want to include those or if I’d rather leave each side one solid unit.
@clw
Hi Chuck,
I barely have my setup operational, so I can’t provide any experiential insight yet. I will tell you that, for me, it turned out to be a good thing because I made the mistake of impatiently building the enclosure before having the actual WW. So, I undersized the depth by a couple inches. It will be fine for probably 95% of what I imagine using it for, but I can’t use the front-most Y axis extent due to the dust boot. That said, that extra little access door can be propped open a bit and all is well.
Also, one of the original ideas for the panel was to allow a long piece of stock to be machined without giving up all the benefits of an enclosure.
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@rcincorona
Thank you Roger. I saw a lot of discussion regarding room for the boot so the forums saved me with regards to clearance for that. Great point about the long stock - I’m going to go ahead and include that feature.
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It’s obvious that you haven’t used your machine or done any work in the shop IT’S TO DAMNED CLEAN 
set up looks good, if you want to keep wheels take a 2x4x6 drill a pocket so that wheels are firmly in pocket - good job for CNC. Have fun and enjoy.
Why did you you use 2–3/4 pieces of MDT for the table… could you not use 1 piece of 3x4 plywood and a 3/4 inch MDT as spoil board. thanks
Why did you use 2-3/4 inch MDF instead of using a 3/4 in plywood for table top and 3/4 inch MDF for spoilboard
Thanks
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Yep Ron, took those photos right after building it… not so clean now.
Michael, the workbench top is 3/4 in plywood. Then i put 3/4 mdf inside the machine limits (photo was before it was secured to the table, it doesn’t come flush to the table. Then i put a spoilboard on top of that (not shown). I figured I could spare the z height and I won’t be screwing in and out of the main plywood top every time I swap spoil boards.
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The thicker the table, the better in my opinion, due to the weight and stiffness. The manual says to build up the wasteboard thickness, but I opted to build up the table thickness so I’d have the maximum amount of Z-travel available to me. I went with MDF glued together since MDF was much cheaper than good quality plywood.
Also, I’ve never owned a CNC before. I had all these grand ideas about building a fancy table with a removeable section so I could engrave really tall items, but I was short on time and wanted to get the machine operable. And frankly, I needed the CNC to make some of the parts for my CNC table. So I bought the Kreg table base, MDF and some oak trim and slapped the initial table together in a couple hours.
Note: For maximum stiffness it is recommended that you build up your wasteboard to a thickness of 2-1/2" - 3". This will still give you approximately 3" of gantry clearance while reducing the moment force on the Router, Z-Slider and X-Rail parts. When building up your wasteboard to this thickness please ensure you use the Z-Sliders top mounting holes.
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@rcincorona MDF here in the UK is 96” x 48” (2440x1220mm) so my table will also be a little short in the “Y” axis. I’ve designed a pocket in the rear wall so the steppers stick through and I’m going with the @PwnCNC rear facing “V2” dust boot too. Hopefully the few extra mm this gains will prevent a collision at the very front of the Y travel 
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Maybe this will help. Looks like with my support arms, the v2 sticks out 1.75" with the face part on or just under 1/2" with it off.
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Looks like the newest v8 (sold exclusively through Onefinity) sticks out only 1.25" with the carriage in the front-most position.
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That’s excellent information! Thanks very much!!
Can I ask, what’s the stickout at the very rear of the machine please? @PwnCNC
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