Thoughts on my table design?

You are missing height. Changing bits (something you do frequently) will be a pain.

I’m assuming you have it this low so you tuck it away under a bench. Is there someway you can add a lifting mechanism under the platform? I’m thinking of something like a Hydraulic Lift Cart.

You are also missing any cable and hose (vacuum, cooling for spindle) management. You need a boom arm or something to help with these and they need to be mounted somewhere.


I don’t see any accounting for the space and bulk of routing the wires or a drag chain setup. If your using an actual spindle you may also have cooling to manage. Your controller is mounted to the base where everything plugs in. The actual controller has mounting flanges on the sides so unsure how you would mount yours if its the Onefinity controller.

I would also note, 1/2 ply will not be sturdy enough. The machine itself is very heavy and will sag under the weight. Your wheels too appear very small, and unlikely to hold up to moving such a heavy object. Wheels are problematic overall, so you want to be able to lock them.

I have a full inch of ply under a 3/4" mdf for the top of mine on a steel tube frame. If space and mobility is a problem, consider making storage under the frame for other things.


Looks like he has the feet directly over the 2x6’s, so the plywood’s not going to be much more than a skin on top. I’d be more concerned about getting the 2x6’s square and symmetrical and then the associated wood movement in them going forward


Thank you all for the input! I knew I wasn’t considering a number of things, not having the object on hand.

In terms of strength, flatness, and squareness, I am getting the QCW frame. Given that they sell folding legs and a way to wall mount just the frame, my assumption is that would provide the structural needs and the table just needs to be strong and sturdy enough to hold it up. Is this not a correct assumption?

Is the height an issue simply since it would require crouching down to change the bits? Or is there something else about height I need to consider?

I would mount the controller to a piece of plywood that is mounted vertically to the table and was planning on running the wiring through the interior of the table. If that is not practical, how much lateral space is required around the rails?

I do certainly need to consider the boom! Does anyone have any examples of extendable/foldable systems?

Thanks again for all the replies and ideas!

Swing arm dust collection

I saw a low build like your on YouTube but can’t seem to find the video. Search a bit and you might find it.

This video might help you see the QCW frame mounted and show the wiring and space options.

Etsy has many boom options ready made or printable if you have a 3d printer.



Hey Patrick,

a few thoughts on tables for the Onefinity:


Thank you! So many great links!

I would go with the tilting table over the wall mount (as nice as that is!) since I don’t want to sacrifice the wall space. I’ll have to see if I can think of a variation incorporating the QCW without the time and expense of building a torsion box. Or perhaps look more carefully at the 1F folding table and see if there is a way to adapt that to hold the control box and accessories and avoid having to attach everything each time.

That cover looks great! While it is overkill for my applications, at least initially, I will extend my design (whatever it ends up being) to accommodate adding it and also add room for drag chains. I’m not even 100% on a boom since I should just be able to put my vacuum in front and hang the hose, if needed.

Thanks again for all the links!

Edit to add: I understand I will need to change the front edge of the table to give access to the router, but is there any reason I couldn’t just tip the whole thing on its side to do so, excepting the weight considerations of doing so?

Edit 2: Nevermind, I am using the QCW which would preclude vertical use anyway, no?

Hey Patrick,

I forgot, what I have also bookmarked for building a table in case in you use a dust boot from PwnCNC is the dimensions of the overhang here, here, here and here (the dust boot v8 is part of Infinite Dust Collection Kit)

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Here’s the low mounted example


I did a quick and dirty model of the QWC board to make it clearer that would be providing the bulk of the structure.

Hey UltrafoxStudio, hey all,

well the thing with the third dimension, I think that’s a bit in theory. Unless you have a robotic arm that puts your workpieces on your vacuum table, you’ll want the machine at a height that suits your spinal disc pain and with a bunch of space above it to lean over for manual clamping.

At this moment in the video, the young person says:

“Yeah the machine is going to sit a little bit lower than normal working height, but when I really think of it, I don’t actually need it at normal working height. The time I’m up close and personal with the machine is when either swapping out material or changing bits, so it’s really no biggie to kneel down for a few minutes at a time.”

Hahaha! You can only say something like that because you don’t really have to, and you have to when you really need to get work done with the machine. You say that if you are young (obviously), or because you are Japanese who are used to working on the floor. It’s a bit like when young people are unable to believe that they will become presbyopic at 45 until they do.

A drawer with the machine on it would be nice though. Would appreciate suggestions for drawer slides that support a Journeyman (weight), extendable by its entire depth

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I didn’t make mine low but can imagine some have other priorities and needs. Lots of options for PCM to mull over and make the best decision for them.

I’m 50, so I recognize the disadvantages of going low. But I am also a fit fifty (going DH MTB tomorrow), and work on the ground pretty damn often. Last major project was a series of 4’ x 4’ paintings on panel that had snap-line grids on them in repeated layers, and gold leafing. The snap-lines, for various reasons, had to be done on the ground. The gold could be done at workbench height. The gold was definitely more comfortable, but the lines were plenty doable, and I won’t have to manually crouch over the table during the whole cut, unlike snapping 200 plus lines while crouching/kneeling and stretching across a 4 foot surface.

I know at some point (and probably within 10-15 years), I will need more height on it. But for now, space is more of a premium than comfort. Just one of those trade-offs.

Hey Patrick,

That’s good. Actually, leaning forward over the machine is always harmful to the intervertebral discs, whether you’re standing or kneeling. And it’s always a workout for the back muscles. I was also serious about the video of the Japanese who are used to working on the floor, I once set up my woodworking workshop this way some time ago and also made a workbench that low and also have planes that work on pull. Of course if you keep fit like living on the floor then it shouldn’t be that bad no matter how old you are. In fact, I had my apartment set up Japanese a few years ago, living on the floor. At the moment I live in an interim solution, I am not really furnished, let’s see how it will be when I live in the final place.

By the way, I’m closer to trying this out with the machine on the floor than I’d like, because I haven’t been able to realize my design for a machine base yet and will still have to assemble and test the machine before the warranty expires :frowning:


Hey UltrafoxStudio,

yes that’s what I like on this forum, I got a lot of inspiration when I dived into it and it still persists.

Thanks for that really cool video! My wife did a lot of woodworking back in the day and got very good at doing dove tails and various other forms of joinery with just eye and hand. I’ve never had the knack.

Hey Patrick,

you mean the working on the floor video? In fact, the original is this:

下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物1/3
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物2/3
下町に息づく伝統の技 江戸指物3/3

If you liked it, you surely will like this one too:


What I found very interesting is how the master cabinetmaker straightens out the twisted wood.

Also this one:

釘を使わない伝統の家具 東京職人「江戸指物」

Just in case someone would want to know, the book that explains all the tools and the workshop is:

Odate, Toshio: JAPANESE WOODWORKING TOOLS: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use, 1st Linden Publishing Edition 1998, Linden Publishing, 2006 S. Mary, Fresno, CA 93721 USA, ISBN 9780941936460 (First print: Taunton Press, 1984)

This book is a real treasure if you want to know anything about japanese traditional woodworking tools.

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Got a good idea from these Videos , Thanks for sharing

Got the Infinity Tuesday and got it set up today! Decided to keep it super minimal until I have used it a bit and can decide on the best setup for my situation.


My machine just arrived also, 4 weeks before I expected it. So my table isn’t built. My plan is to make a torsion box and mount it on a cabinet. In this first stage I can make paths within the box, if there are cables that don’t move during operations (reduce snags, dust). I see you have one cable in front of the QCW. Are there other cables that would be helpful to ‘tunnel’? If so, what landmarks on the machine best describe the places to enter/leave the hidden path(s)?

The torsion box and cabinet are ‘upsized’ versions of one I built as an “assembly table / table saw outfeed”. For construction advice, see a Youtube series by “Down To Earth Woodworker”. The first video is:
SawStop Outfeed Table Pt 1 - YouTube

I modified his, and if you’d like a copy of my version, let me know. I use TurboCAD, so tell me if you need a different file type.

After I figure the machine out, I plan to build an enclosure, so the table is sized to accommodate one. That design is still being worked out.

While we’re at it, here’s a question for the experienced users: How many drawers or bays are useful in a cabinet beneath your 1F? My plan has a shelf in the back for a cooling fluid pump/reservoir. In front I have four drawers, each 20" long, 13" wide x 5.5" deep (5" deep considering the drawer bottom). Beneath that there’s space for eight more (same size) but that seems excessive. The space can also be left open by adding doors, or some combination of drawers and cabinet space. After setting aside the top 4 drawers, there’s still a lot of room: 15" H, 22" D, 56" W.