I agree as well, I just built a basic table on top of my a drafting table i use as workbench. Figuring out all the kinks and what I really need and want in my finished build. I have some basic plans if anyone wants. 
t3:
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I just ordered my OneFinity Woodworker machine and am starting to think about my table design. It looks like most people orient their T-Track parallel to the Y axis. Has anyone oriented them parallel to the X axis? Are there any advantages or disadvantages to that orientation?
Thank you!
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If the t-track is parallel to the X axis it will be harder to slide fixtures in from the side vs from the front as you do when the track is parallel to the Y axis. It’s not terribly extra difficult but if your X axis is parallel to the front edge of your table (as most setups are), then you would also have the issue of having to have access all the way along the side of the table to slide in fixtures - with the track parallel to the Y axis, you can reach all of the tracks for inserting fixtures in one line along the front of the machine. Also, you just slide things in & back when the tracks are parallel to the Y axis (as long as the machine is mounted on the table with the X axis parallel to the front). If the tracks were parallel to the X axis you are reaching across, over or under the Y axis rails to adjust whatever fixtures (clamps) you’re putting in the track.
To those that built/installed their 1F table against the wall, do you regret the position? For example, do you wish you were able to push larger pieces through, such as for tiling projects?
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Mine is sideways along the wall :).
Best of both worlds
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That is why I put on casters. I tile occasionally and it is nice to have it pulled out. But for the vast majority of the time it stays in one place…in a corner.
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I built mine 4’ x 4’ with the control box mounted on the left side. Space was tight so I sacrificed the extra foot. It works great for general use but I’m still trying to figure out what I want to do with the control screen. The included mount doesn’t allow the screen to tilt very far and being a tall person sucks sometimes… I would like to mount the screen to the right side of the table but all of the cables for the screen on on the right side and I don’t see how you can flip the rotation. I usually control and monitor things from a nearby laptop anyway though.
Anyway, the table is a simple 2x6 frame with an MDF torsion box for rigidity and true flat.
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have a link for the 4" boot?
This is the type I used. May not have been this specific seller though. I had to grind away part of the back so it would clear the plate the 80mm mount connects to. I might not of needed to if I had a 3d printer because this type of boot uses inserts to clamp on a wide range of spindles. I’m sure someone could make an offset adapter ring that may have enough clearance. They don’t sell a ring in 65mm, also something someone with a 3d printer could make. Even with what I removed the dust collector removes 99% of the dust and chips.
https://www.amazon.com/Daedalus-Engraver-Pressure-Engraving-Milling/dp/B0813JJ831/ref=sr_1_2
@Dr-Al which 1hp dust collector do you have? I had one (a Rockler 650 CFM, rated about 80-85 db) and returned it due to loudness.
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I have been considering using Unistrut also for my Journeyman table with a double layer of 3/4 MDF glued together. Or build a torsion box to fit the Kreg 44x64 bench I have coming. I will be adding in some panels between the legs which should stiffen the frame up considerably and close the space in at the same time. I’ll build some storage into that space.
I have the QCW from above coming too so not sure if I will need the torsion box design or not.
I am also interested in DC suggestions. This would be dedicated to the OF and use a separator before the DC.
I have a cheap Harbor Freight one. I don’t know if it’s a fluke but it’s very quiet. You can easily have a normal level conversation near it.
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I put together a 4" dust boot that you can 3D print (for free), or pick up on my Etsy page. I have versions for both 65mm and 80mm spindles. Here’s the Thingiverse links: 65mm: OneFinity 4-inch Dust Boot by gopher5 - Thingiverse 80mm: Onefinity 4-inch Dust Boot for 80mm spindle by gopher5 - Thingiverse
My DC is an older Delta 50-760 that I’ve upgraded with a cartridge filter and an Oneida Dust Deputy separator in front. Tolerable noise-wise. Someday (hopefully soon!) I’ll be upgrading to a larger DC so I can run a 2nd tool simultaneously with the 1F.
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I just ordered the Kreg 44" legs. Do you by chance have more pictures of your table as you were building it. I was thinking of doing the same thing with unistrut? It looks like you added 4 pieces across the table to support the top and spoil board.
Hi Bob,
Here are some pictures for you. Using a Unistrut frame under the top worked out great. Makes for a very flat, strong and firm surface. There is no need to stiffen the Kreg bench. I have the QCW and all that is really needed is a flat and stable surface under it. I did mod the Kreg bench by dropping the bottom shelf as far down as it could go. Don’t know why they had it so far off the ground. This allowed room for a 2 foot square sound proof vacuum enclosure inside the bench. Vacuum enclosure walls where made of 3/4 MDF, 3/4 SONOpan and 5/8 drywall. Work well to reduce noise but cooked by old shop vac in a few hours. Using my Fein dust extractor outside the enclosure till I figure out how to get more air in without letting sound out. Cheap shop vacs are not meant to run for a long time and little better ones are too big for what is needed and not would fit in the enclosure I made. Not sure how others are able to run their shop vacs in enclosure without over heating them. Now the router makes more noise than anything else anyway. Also I have wheels on the Kreg bench like everything else in the shop. I plan to build an enclosure this winter.
Hope this all helps you and some others
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Thanks for all the photos, will study them later.
Where did you get your dust boot? What
is the diameter of the boot vacuum intake? Very nice setup you have there!