Tram gauge issue, need a sanity check

I bought a SST tram gauge with the plan of tramming my WW Pro this weekend. I put the gauge in the makita router and started to do the calibration procedure (dial the right side to around .1 inch then zero the dial, then spin the gauges and do the other gauge in the same reference point as the first), but it became immediately obvious that I wouldn’t be able to spin the gauges, even with the tool extended as far out as it will go, as it hits the frame of the machine.

So, I think theres not gonna be a good way to use this gauge because:

To make the gauge clear, I’ll need to raise the Z assembly higher, which I don’t want to do (I’m mounted with the 2nd set of holes currently, and going to the third will likely cause issues with shorter bits in the makita). If I trammed the device on the third holes so it could clear, moving the carriage back to the second set of holes after will just mean I’d have to tram again which I can’t do with the gauge at that setting, right?

The shaft of the gauge looks pressed in so I can’t swap it for something longer as far as I can tell.

Should I just return this thing and go the stick method of tramming?

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Ditch the red aluminum pc. and make yourself a new bar to hold the dial indicators. Then you can make it as long as you like to get more accuracy.

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If you move the dial indicators to the inner (2.5") locations, will they clear the inside of the Z-slider radially?

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Hello All,
Here is how I check tram, which I only do after a crash… not as often as it once was… LOL.

First I re-square the Z router mount. Remove router, loosen the 4 mount bolts. Place a 2 foot level running from center on X, place a 1x2x4 oak block ( that I milled ) on top at center. Now lower Z until paper touch off. Remove paper and lower z .010, Tighten the mounting bolts.

Re-intall router and resuface ( use a 1.000 bit ). The last pass of the resurface will be .005 depth, .100 stepover at 800 IPM.

Now to verify my tram I will use my (.250 in “Tram Tool” )… Which is a piece of .250 x 3.000 HS… LOL Using Z prob block at x15 - y15. Write the absoute numbers down. Then do the whole 90 and 45 deg points at 15.000 from center. Re-zeroing the the center absolute before before each new prob. Do the math for each deference. Mine has aways been within +/- .001 - .004 of center point. Keep in mind that i over a run of 15.000. That is plenty close for me.
It may sound complicated but it’s not after you do it once or twice. Plus it is very satisfying to do it with tools I made. I did end writing a tool path to speed things up for the 8 probes.

Hey Gil, hey all,

This is a description of how you can adjust perpendicularity;

see also here and here

What I own is this instrument, to use with these blocks:

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As a machinist, I’ve never been a fan of the tram gage. IMO, you’re better off with a single indicator on an arm, regardless of how crude it may be. As long as it holds the indicator securely it will be fine. It also has the benefit of utilizing a much wider sweep diameter, vs. the tram gauge which is what… maybe 6" between the indicators? The sweep is too localized and doesn’t give a truly accurate overall picture.

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Yep, with a long enough arm you can get a full 32" span, more on the larger machines. The accuracy you end up with is awesome.

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