I had my first “crash”, after 2 years of working. I’ve had mistakes where I carved where I didn’t intend. I’ve even carved into a clamp or two. I’ve even had the dust boot arm collide with a clamp, causing the end mill to cut into the hole plate. But this time, I crashed enough to break the dust boot arm, and destroy my dust boot. I was able to perform an emergency stop before the spindle or end mill came in contact with anything (other than the dust boot). So I consider myself lucky.
Now my question: has anyone constructed a safety shutoff attached to the dust boot?
Since the dust boot is going to be the first thing to collide (in 99% of crashes), it could be made to break away and immediately trigger an emergency stop.
these are some clamps i made for holding that are a low as you could ask for. they only rise up about an eighth inch above the workpiece. so they are downright difficult to hit unless you try.
Now that I have had 2 successful launches of smaller pieces I have turned my attention to mechanical fixation. Even the best double sided tape and 2" brad nails were no match for an upcut bit!
Did you machine those aluminum bars on your onefinity? And if so, how did you hold THOSE down? It’s like clamp Inception.
I feel like these are a way better approach than the usual ‘dogleg’ aluminum track clamps. It looks like you have regular tee nuts in the track?..
@UltraPeepi That would be a cool feature. A breakaway dust boot that triggers an estop is interesting. Would the breakaway action just have the dust shroud just fall into the cutter?
@HardtailSr Nice clamps. I’m also interested in how you made those. I like the rigidity of aluminum, but also like the forgiveness of plastic.
I did the ends on the onefinity yes but the center slot I did on my mill because I was unsure that the onefinity could handle the gumming up problem but with a 0 flute bit made especially for aluminum it should be fine. As you can see in the pictures I made a holder for the bar and then clamped it to the machine table and so I would be able to just repeat the function over and over. A sort of nest /jig. The trick to keeping the clamps low is twofold. Having the t nuts with a lot of collar (the threaded barrel of the t nut). This helps with the range of clamping and using the proper length of low head screws. I bought several sizes that I keep in separate compartments of a small parts holder and finally at the hind end of the bar, just use a piece of material the same thickness as the workpiece you are carving. Doing it this way the height of the entire clamp assembly is .125 inches about the work. which is far below any z height you would program in your carve. I could take some pictures of each part and post them If anyone is interested. I could make many more of these clamps. if anyone would like them for a modest price. with the hardware included or without. Just let me know.
Ohhh, yes - I have a set of those. I liked them at first, but they do take a beating from collisions. I use them less and less in favor of the low profile ones.
These also don’t seem to have as much holding power as other designs that have the screw closer to the material. I’ve found the “OOPS” clamps from Onefinity seem to have the most hold-down power of all the ones I’ve tried.
Ya know what, I forgot about those. I ruled them out at initial purchase as a “get that if/when you need it” or “you can just make that” kind of thing. They do look like they work pretty much like the one HardtailSr made. Maybe this time I just suck it up and go with the ready made over DIY.
I can make many more for about 3 dollars each without the hardware witch you can buy yourselves. to fit what you do most I use 1.5,1.25 and1 inch low head screws. I am including a list of the parts so you can order them yourselves from amazon or whom ever you choose.
I went with your approach of low head screws pointing down, instead of long ass screws pointing up with knobs on them.
I still need to pick up sume flat bar stock to imitate your clamps, but I did print some toe clamps from the pwn guys that do have amazing down force at the price of zero reach.
ah ok so yes i can make you some clamps for 3.50 dollars each.no hardware included but you have the info to get the hardware on amazon. the knob as you call itis called a thumb ratchet. let me know if you want some.
Good call on the thumb ratchet. I was looking through my stuff for a decent hex wrench to dedicate to the clamps, I will copy this idea from you also.
Shorty printed clamps did their first bigger carve yesterday with zero play.
those clamps are pretty cool. It would be difficult to run into them and even if you did would likely do no harm but to the clamp. But like you said zero flexibility for differing work piece thicknesses, and th placement has to be where it is and nowhere else.
