First sign - Oramask failure

It’s not much, but it’s a start. I had a hard time with the Oramask, so I went with just painting and then doing a .005 skim cut and it worked pretty well. Will use as a lazy susan on the table during Christmas season.

I do want to figure out how to make the Oramask adhere better. Is there a downcut V-bit available? It would help if the bit wasn’t pulling the masking up during the cut.

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Google “GrooVee Jenny”, it is a 90 degree ‘down-shear’ V-bit that might be the answer you are looking for.
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I use oramask all the time and it sticks so good its hard to remove, I use mainly hardwoods with a good flat surface. It never lifts during machining.
Pat

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That looks great. You might try a brayer to help with the oramask, keep on cutting…

I have had best luck with sanding the wood to ~180 grit, then applying a 1-2 thin coats of sanding sealer, or 1 very thin coat of shellac. Basically, Oramask sticks best to something smooth.

I also apply it like I would window tint; I use a “J-Roller” from Michael’s Crafts (brayer as DizzG mentioned) and apply just a little bit at a time as I roll it out. I will then go back over it to get any tight corners or edges using a credit card.

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I cheap out and use shelf liner from walmart in place of oramask. It isnt quite as good but its a fraction of the price. Just throwing that out there.

I have used the cadence jenny v bits and honestly I am not really thrilled with them. While they might do a little better with masking materials than cheapo china bits, it isn’t by much. Additionally, they leave terrible fuzzies all over, which takes far more work to clean up than using a normal bit. I’m not a fan and won’t be buying more.

This right here. I have the down shear V Bits from Cody at Cadence Manufacturin in 30, 60, and 90 degree. They cut super clean always leave the Oramask on the work piece.

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