Frustrated in Seattle

Hello!!! This is my first official post on here. Soooo stoked to have my OF after what seemed like a lifetime of waiting (note really, I’m just impatient). Came in a few weeks ago and I’ve been taking my time to make sure I’m doing it right. Lots of tutorials and lots of learning to do. I finally did my very first carve yesterday, I ran the built-in “Team OneFinity” file and it worked flawlessly… However… When I went to run my first self-created file, it all went a bit sideways…

I create all of my graphics with either Illustrator 2022 or Photoshop 2022, save them as both .dxm and .svg files. I use Fusion360 and created my test board which is 12" x 6". I’m using the Amana 45771-K 30* engraving 1/4" shank.

Once I save the code, I upload it to the OF, I secure my donor board to my spoil board, then Probe for XYZ. All is good, its all green. Then I hit play and poof… the OF moves off the board about 2" and starts to air carve and from the looks of it, its carving upside down. Oooof… I’m a total noob when it comes to CNCs and Fusion 360 and am hoping someone might have a fix or point me in the right direction. Any and all thoughts and ideas are appreciated… TIA!!!

Mario Alvarez

Make sure you set the work area zero in Fusion to be the same place as where your zero’d XYZ on the machine.



Um… Yeah… Thank you sooo much… I’m sure that is EXACTLY what I screwed up… THANK YOU!!!


In addition to Alex’s suggestion about the home position in Fusion you also need to adjust your workflow.

If you use the 30 degree V-bit to probe with the OneFinity probe block, your X & Y are going to be wrong. You need a straight but or gage pin to set the X/Y with the probe. That gives a consistent diameter for the controller to calculate the correct center of the bit for execution.

If you use a V-bit for probing the side of the bit that touches the block won’t be at a fixed point in the bit with a known diameter.

You should insert a straight but or gage pin, probe for X & Y, change to your V-bit and then probe for Z. Or use the manual paper method to zero the 3 axes using the V-bit.


Vbits are nice and pointy, I usually x, y by eye and use the probe for z.


That will not be your first face palm. Another good one is changing tools and forgetting to re-probe z, using a 3d adaptive clearing in F360 without flat surface detection (leaves unmilled stock), router not on, poor clamping, wrong bit (forget to change), redoing toolpaths after a change… Enjoy


Sadly I’m checking alot of those off as …“yep I’ve done that”…