Lost XYZ because of mistake

good afternoon all.

So I just finished the roughing pass on this.
As I was cleaning up and getting ready to start the finish pass, I was moving the gantry and a piece of wood got caught and really jammed the Y rails.
Needless to say that took my X,Y zero way off.
Anyway recover this?What I have done so far:
first I removed the piece of wood, and tried to move my gantry Y position.
It would not go all the way back (about 3" off)
so I thought I would just re zero the Y position (X stayed the same) I used a 30deg vbit set it on the lower left corner and set a new Y zero. It was showing the same 3" “adjustment”.
Not satisfied, I decided to shut down and restart. After rebooting the controller I re-homed and got my full y travel back. I then used my probe and reset my XYZ.
the x axis is only .001 off from the original.
However the Y axis is .041 greater than original.

Is my finishing path going to be off by the .041?
Anything else I can do?
I haven’t moved the work piece at all (still clamped down)

1 Like

Thoughts on wether I should jog the Y axis back to the original settings or run the finishing pass with the new Y zero

If the bottom left corner is your starting point you should be able to reasonably re set your zero based on that point and run the finishing path. If it is off slightly and the rouging pass left enough stock behind it should be ok, if it is not you could potentially lower the Z zero point a bit and re run the finishing pass.

1 Like

How did you set up the zero position to begin with? With the touch probe in the lower left corner? Did you manually zero it to the lower left corner? I know Fusion 360 likes to pic the very center, did you do it that way? I ask because it will make a difference on how you will set up zero.

The next question is did the work piece move when things got jammed up? If so did you make sure the bottom was parallel to the X axis? If it moved and you didn’t it’ll be difficult to set back up. If the piece is rotated at all it’s not going to come out right.

If nothing else you can learn more than one lesson. Not just about keeping the area free from things that the 1F or router can hit but also how to start off in a way that you can easily replicate the same conditions. I almost always use the lower left corner for my zero. I once used the center and had the same sort of thing happened. What I did was use a piece of 1/4" plywood cut to the same size of the work piece, marked the center of it, and then set the X and Y axis. I then set the Z axis on a part that had not been machined.

Since then I made a lip on the front edge of my spoilboard when I surfaced it. I have a couple pieces if plywood I ripped so I can push them tight to that lip and then push the work piece tight to the plywood so no matter how uneven the lower edge is I can always get the rotation the same if something happens.


Thank you all for the tips.
As I stated I first setup my xyz zero using the probe on the lower left.
Did my roughing toolpath, then moved the gantry toward the back of my spoilboard.
In doing so I jammed a piece of wood between the back right support and the gantry.
This caused my Y axis to be completely off (wouldn’t even travelall the way back.

I restarted my 1F and re-homed all.
As my material had not moved I reset my zero using the lower left.
I noticed that my X axis was almost exactly the same (.001 off) while the Y was .041 off.
I decided to try my finishing pass. I only ran a very few lines and re-check my work to see how close it was. Seemed to be very close so I let it finish.

Here is the final piece (still needs to be cleaned up), but I think it will be just fine.



That came out amazing, how many hours was the total carve on that?


There is still a lot of cleanup.
I think about 2hrs roughing 1/4 ball nose, and 5 hr finish 1/8 ballnose

I’ll post pics tomorrow.

Here is the finished project. (well I will put a couple clear coats)

Turned out very nice.



@Hobbyist ,

I was waiting to see this. The minions turned out great, I love it!

ALWAYS write down your “X” and “Y” coordinates. Restart your machine…then MDI back to your original “X” and “Y” locations.

1 Like

Great advice. I have learned to always write down my X and Y coordinates before I begin my carves. This has saved many of my projects.

Because stall homing may not have prefect repeatability this is not actually a great idea. Depending on the roughing pass there may be enough stock left that this could work well enough however.

Better is to zero off of a spot that won’t get machined away so you can always reset to it. I this case the lower left corner remained intact.

1 Like

I use a 1-2-3 block against the stock and a fixture rail (not shown) and zero off the corner of the block.

Also, I park it at xy 0 before shutting it off. I do not re-home the next day. I start, cancel home request pop up, zero x & y where it is, and rezero z on the top of the block (even when using the same bit, I don’t like to leave it in the collet overnight).

Be warned, since it’s not home, make sure and stock and clamps are less than z0 or you run the risk of colliding with them when the routine is over depending on what you spindle does at the end of a run. Normally, it goes home. Without a home mine goes down to z0 before heading to xy0. I assume this is because it does not know the limits of the z travel without homing so goes to a known good height.

It goes without saying I don’t leave the 1-2-3 block on the table and only have it out for setting zeros.