Just installed my third Makita into my 1F in the 11 months since I took delivery of my CNC.
Called the Makita repair facility in Richmond BC Canada and was told the following.
These are trimmers and should not be used as heavy duty routers, they will overheat and compromise both the speed control and the brush retaining apparatus.
I sort of expected the router to fail, so had the back up which I installed today.
Seems like we are gonna have to keep our chip loads down which will cost us more in router bits.
BTW the Makita trimmer router is a little bit cheaper in Canada by about $20 cdn after consideration of exchange rates, taxes and shipping.
On my 3rd Makita in 4 years. First 2 I had absolutely no problems with till they died (I change brushes about every 50 hours).
This 3rd one was horrible. After a few minutes of running, the collet would be so hot that I had to wear gloves to change the bit.
I tore it apart today. Took about a minute to get the armature out and discovered that the CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP bottom bearing was hard to turn as 1 of the seals was smashed in which probably happened when they installed the bearing. Another 30 seconds with a puller to remove the bearing.
I just ordered a quality SKF bearing from a local bearing shop (DXP) to replace it. It’ll be here tomorrow, then I can press it on and be up and running again. Next router, I’ll replace the bearing before I even turn it on.
For what I do, the routers work good. But maybe some day I’ll have to go the spindle route.
BTW, my power cord is permanent in the drag chain with a plug-in at the Z carriage. When I get a new router, I remove the long cord and put my short cord on. Makes it VERY easy to remove the router for maintenance and cleaning. And I use electrical chokes everywhere and have no EMI problems, you can see a choke on the cord.
Pony
1 Like
It would be cool if someone made some beefy modified versions of this router with a better runout, I would definitely buy one!
Could you let us know the number of the new bearing you have ordered?
The new router I installed today had a hot collet after a 12 minute run.
Can the bearing be replaced without a puller, or do I have to make one to get the original bearing out?
Any one know of a decent spindle that is a direct fit for the Makita clamp, to save mucking about with shim-ing or other fitting for the CNC.
I don’t have the number right in front of me, but I think it was a 6003 with double seals (6003DS?) with the mfg’s initials that the bearing shop had never heard of. The number is on the bearing. If you’re a bearing person, this number/letter combo represents everything you need to know about the bearing
Make sure that it’s a good brand name bearing. Nothing against online shopping, but I wouldn’t buy it there, get it from a bearing shop. My new bearing will be here tomorrow. Sure you’ll pay a few dollars more, but you’ll be assured of getting quality. Plus you will be able to ask them to explain bearing numbers to you.
You’ll need a puller to get the bearing off, but you can make one out of a few pieces of hardwood plus another block of wood and a hammer, or get a 3 piece 2 arm puller set from Harbor Freight. They’re cheap. The middle size puller fits perfect. Or find a friend who has a puller.
Pull the brushes
Remove the 4 screws and take the entire top section off and pull the armature (you might have to make one tap on the shaft with a soft hammer to get it to pop out). Don’t lose the wave washer!
Pull the bearing and replace
You’ll have to press the bearing back on (if you know how, you can do it with a piece of the right size pipe or a block of wood with the right size hole)
Pony
1 Like
It’s a 6003LUV bearing. Not sure if the new SKF bearing will have the same letters, but the number should be the same.
Pony
1 Like
Dang it, new bearing came in and they sent the wrong one. They sent a 6203 instead of a 6003. Now I have to wait another day … Sure am glad it wasn’t an online store!
Pony
Keep a supply of brushes on hand change before they go out the 50 hour running is a good point
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B093C7YMJQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
1 Like
You can also use an appropriately sized socket from your socket wrench set - a long/deep socket is somewhat easier to control because you can get a good firm hold on it.
Have you seen this one? I do not know if its better but it has an er11 collet, which is why it’s on my list.
2 Likes
I was always worried when the Makita was running. There is a risk of it catching fire.
I think the spindle upgrade is essential.
Same with the shopvac.
Both should really have brushless motors to avoid any chance of fire.
Hey great info, thank you, was going to order another Makita, but will get this spindle instead. Dang when I sold my 30-40 gave away a whole set of ER11 collets, but they are cheap so will just buy another set, lets me use the mills from my milling machine.
1 Like
We have to buy online, the nearest big box (home despot) is a 6 hour round trip drive.
Thanks for the info! I see that they’re giving a holiday discount, so I will order one today for a backup!
Just the quality bearings alone make it worth the little extra price over a Makita.
Pony
1 Like
I would definitely do a spindle upgrade but don’t necessarily want a VFD. Idk if there is any good options out there…
Hey Auntjemimma,
a “spindle” usually means a small, cylindrical induction motor. Induction motors forcibly need a VFD, because they are driven by three-phase electricity with a variable frequency (usually 0–400 Hz). A VFD is in principle an AC-to-DC-to-AC inverter which creates such current on the fly (see also differences between hand router and spindle ).
But there could still be what many consider as the best milling motor solution for hobbyists and semiprofessionals, which need no VFD nor any custom wiring, but are simply plugged into your domestic socket, but unfortunately Onefinity still does not offer a Onefinity motor mount for such milling motors (feature requested here as of 2023-Feb-28).
1 Like
Yes this would be the ideal replacement. I wish there was an easy way to mount this specific motor/dust collection solution.
1 Like
I showed the image Terje made in this thread to show that if you have some metal-work workshop, it should not be too hard to build such a mount. You would need a 8 mm aluminium plate for the back, a 43 mm “Euro” motor mount like this one for attachment to a mounting plate, and two linear bearings that are easily available. This could then replace the spindle mount on the Onefinity Z assemby.
The problem one would need to solve is not simply to have a 43 mm diameter clamping ring, but to enable the Z slider to protrude downward beyond the lower end of the Z assembly, as shown here, what the Onefinity spindle mount is absolutely unable to do.
1 Like
Another ER-11 option is that Kobalt tools (house brand of Lowes) actually reached out to the MPCNC community for some design input and has come out with an ER11 collet router which they kinda/sorta even specifically indicate is intended for CNC use (although I’m not sure that they’ll actually cover that use through warranty)
I’ve picked one up and am planning to use it on my Journeyman as a stopgap until I figure out my long term spindle strategy. My Journeyman appears to have just shipped, so I don’t have any hands-on feedback just yet.
1 Like