Hey all
I put together a Smartsheet tracking list of all the bits I’ve acquired before my Onefinity CNC even showed up. Creating Smartsheet solutions is actually my day job, but I might be a bit (pun intended) too excited about this hobby already.
I’d love your thoughts:
Am I missing anything obvious?
Anything you’d recommend I pick up early on?
Does this seem like a solid starter list for general CNC use (mostly wood, maybe some epoxy projects)?
I’ve got a flattening bit on the way too, so that’s covered. Curious how my selection stacks up-too much, too little, or just right?
I’m going with the “too many” and the “not enough” options.
Most projects will only require a 1/4” up-cut, 1/8” up-cut, 1/2” or 3/4” bowl but and of course the flattening bit. Maybe a 90 and 60 degree v-bit.
Downcut bits are useful too but you can get the same effect for top or bottom cut through by placing your material’s face based on which bit you’re using. I prefer up-cut bits because they pull chips up & out instead of packing them down into the cut. I also usually use solid woods so I don’t get the tear-out that you often get with plywood that makes bit cut direction more critical.
Compression bits are useful but you have to specify the cut parameters properly. That means if you’ve got a 1/4” compression bit that is 1 1/2” CL with a 1/4” up-cut portion, your initial DOC should be more than that - maybe 0.325” vs a typical step depth of 0.125” (1/2 the bit diameter). That puts the downcut portion of the bit in the initial cut to keep the top surface clean. But that’s more aggressive than usual and is easier with a spindle than a router so speeds can be altered for the initial cut vs subsequent ones.
You also have some different shank sizes so I’m assuming you’ve got a spindle with a half-inch capacity. Make sure you have collets to match the 4 different shank sizes you’ve got. If you don’t have a spindle you’re unlikely to be able to use the 3/8 & 1/2” shank bits.
I’d also recommend having 2 or 3 of the standard 1/4” up (or down) cut bits as well as the 1/8” ones. That way when you break a bit, you’ve got a spare and aren’t waiting to get a replacement before continuing your project.
Generally I only get bits as I design projects that need a different bit. Amazon is only a day or two away when you need a new type. Otherwise you end up with lots of brand new bits that don’t ever get used. I expect most of us use 2 or 3 bits for 90% of our projects.
You’re going to get a variety of different opinions on which ones you should have but probably all will be a selection of 3 or 4. It’s just the type that changes because it depends on what kinds of projects you’re going to be doing and the materials you’ll be using.
It depends on the type of cutting you doing
I did 10 years of cutting signs with high school students with just a 60 degree V bit and a 1/4” endmill
I did replace them every year but that’s all I needed
If you are doing 3d carving 1/8” ball nose tapered endmill is good
If you are cutting aluminum 1/4” O flute
So figure out what you’re going to do for the most part
The worst bit to buy is the one you never use.
As others have noted, you have a wide selection, which is pretty much what I did when I started. Many are still in a box unused.
I recommend inexpensive bits from eBay when you start. As Robert mentioned, you will break bits and breaking a $2 bit is far less painful than breaking a $55 bit - ask me how I know.
For Aluminium, silver and Brass I have been using: 0.5, 1, 2, and 3.175mm end mills, vbits ranging from 10 to 90 Deg with shanks,.3.175, 4 and 6.35 mm
For 3d relief carves and 3d model cutting: ball nose bits ranging from 1/64, 1/32 up to 4mm and various end mills
For 2d wood rarely above 6.35mm but down to 2mm.
Diameters and profiles are key but sometimes I need some really long shank bits for foam cutting and some 3d models that have deep crevices.
1.5inch but for surfacing.
So you don’t have too many, but you may not have the ones you need as it depends on your projects. For fine bits I would buy 3 at a time until you tuned the feeds and speeds as they will break, especially when metal cutting.
I’ll probably get roasted, but I love the 60 degree sign making bit from Lee Valley.
It has extra meat around the cutting edges and I could get a year of cutting out of it.
Call me old fashioned but I like .05 to .1 max DOC. I thought when I got my 2.2k spindle I could ramp up to .25 but I don’t like the harmonic resonance coming off those ceramic bearings when I’m given her the beans.
Speeds depend on what you are cutting. Pocket cutting 120 IPM, Vcarving 60 IPM
Stay conservative if time is not an issue. You will save bits and bearings. As for makes Carbide Onsruds or the Downtown jenny are good bits IMO
Besides the bits, I suggest getting extra collets as they do wear out and need periodic replacement too, though not often. I actually have a pair of collets and collet nuts of each size (1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2) and alternate between bit changes. I probably don’t need the extra 3/8 and 1/2, as I don’t use them that often.
I suggest getting some bits (especially the narrower ones) from IDC Woodcraft. They have a 90day replacement guarantee, no questions asked.
I usually go with the 3/4” bowl but more than the 1/2”. I don’t use bowl bits just for getting the curve on the bottom of trays, it’s good for initial clearing of big spaces - much faster than something like a 1/4” end mill.
Oh and mike? i would suggest collet nuts as well save you having to reinsert collets. you can set them up and when needed just drop them into the ATC pockets ready to go. That is if you are getting an ATC. if you are brand new, skip it for now, as it is a giant learning curve as well as an extra expense.
Homed the machine to confirm machine x/y coordinates were 0/0.
Jogged the machine to tool setter and wrote down absolute coordinates.
Went to F1 screen to setup the tool.
Homed the machine again (2nd time). Correct bit was already in the spindle from the last job.
Used probe block to set XYZ.
Homed again. Machine went home, then to setter to measure bit.
Loaded toolpath.
Hit Rewind/Cycle Start. Was prompted to load tool. (no change required)
Hit Cycle start. Spindle went down to measure tool (setter depressed), came up, spindle started, came straight down on tool setter and proceeded to carve.
I reached out to 1F support and all they told me was that I should never change the tool unless prompted. I told them that I never changed it (even after prompted) since it was the same bit I needed from the last completed job. Anyway, I could not get an answer as to what could have gone wrong (ie. did I miss a step in the setup process). Anyway, I’m just setting the Z height manually for now. This is still just a weekend hobby for now, so not a big deal.
If anyone sees anything I missed in the steps above, any insight would be appreciated.
