New Raspberry Pi, Will Not Boot

Hi all,

First post. I’m having issues with my X50 and I need some help. Over the past year or two, I have had issues with the cut path becoming offset. I can only describe this as it skipping over to a double image during the cut, offset an inch or so diagonally. This started as an intermittent issue, then became more frequent. After a while, I started to notice issues with inconsistent cut depth, especially in a batch cut from one component to the next. This worsened, with the machine randomly diving through the piece and deep into the wasteboard. Then the screen started freezing, but the cut would still run. As the issues progressed, it got to the point where I needed to reboot after every cut in order for the touch probe to work. A couple of weeks ago, I tried to boot the machine, but all that would happen was “Image Dock” would flash on the screen every few seconds.

I have contacted support about these issues. I shut off everything that would potentially cause EMI. (I plan to install ferrite rings, as I just found that suggestion recently). A reflash would help for a project or two, then the issues would return. The last time I emailed support, they recommended replacing the controller. I decided to roll the dice and replace the Raspberry Pi first, installing a 3B+. Image Dock is no longer flashing, but all I get is a screen with the color spectrum… nothing more.

We have lost a lot in white oak and broken endmills. The last time the machine ran, very little of the end product was useable. We’ve checked the simulations, alignment and flattened the wasteboard. A new controller would be rough on the budget, so I would like to leave that as a last resort. However, I have orders pending, so I’m in a bit of a tough spot. Where should I go from here?

Hey Mario,

possibly you have two separate issues here.

Regarding the symptoms you describe, I don’t think I would replace the controller. These issues are frequent and their cause is in most cases either

  • the tin-plated stock connectors that are unreliable and make errors after a longer use, especially on moving parts with no strain relief (as found on left X axis foot) or

  • electromagnetic interference (EMI), or

  • internal cable break on the “curly” Z cable.

If you use the search function of the forum, you will information about these three possible causes.

Did you ensure this:

By not observing this accidentally, the other day I got a Raspberry Pi B where the HDMI output permanently ceased to work. Still working for remote User Interface control.

Welcome to the forum!

I recently encountered an annoying issue with my 21" computer monitor (not factory touchscreen), which was randomly blinking on and off. While this problem may not be directly related to Raspberry Pi, I wanted to share my experience and solution with you all in case someone else encounters a similar problem.

At first, I attempted to address the issue by segregating the power sources for my Onefinity Controller, Router, and dust collector onto separate AC circuits. I made each of these devices connect to a unique receptacle leading back to distinct circuit breakers in the breaker box. Surprisingly, this approach actually helped and provided a few days of relief from the blinking monitor.

However, the problem eventually resurfaced, and that’s when I identified the true culprit: the worn-down brushes on my Makita router. These deteriorated brushes were causing significant arcing, leading to the intermittent monitor issues.

Then, with the help of some guy named Murphy, my monitor went out completely a week or so later which I traced back to the HDMI jumper cable between the RPI and the controller case. Giving a few bucks to Jeff Bezos fixed this issue which I attributed to my HDMI cable not being supported enough this whole time. I will eventually find a way to support the HDMI cable completely but at least I got a 2-pack of jumpers :-\

Also, I just finished upgrading to a spindle motor and what I did was to not run the spindle power cord through my drag chain. This would have brought the cable directly in contact with the stepper motor cables (which are not shielded) and I simply didn’t want to take that risk. Instead, I sent the spindle cable straight up to the ceiling where I looped it through a carabiner, providing enough slack for movement, and off to the VFD at a completely oblique angle to any other power source.

If you still have an issue, you can possibly try to ensure proper grounding overall which there are a few posts here on doing that.


Aiph5u and Forrest,

Thanks for great starting point. I finally got a chance to do some troubleshooting today:

Looking through the cabling / connection threads, I saw where some people have had issues with crushed cables in the rails. This was checked today, with no continuity found between the rails and the connections at the controller. However, looking closer at the cables, some of the connections look a bit sketchy, so I will order another set this afternoon and will add strain relief. Swapping out the connectors for the more solid Phoenix connectors would be awesome, but not something I am able to do at this point.

I thought that EMI was adequately addressed by putting the controller, the router and the dust collection on three separate circuits. The dust collector is on a different phase altogether. I did not realize that the router was as dirty as it is, so I will be adding ferrite rings and swapping out the brushes… Lesson learned.

The main issue still seems to be booting. “Image Dock” is no longer flashing since I changed out the Pi. Now I just get the color spectrum when the SD card is installed. When I turn it on without the SD card, the screen simply says, “No signal,” as expected. This would suggest there is communication within the system, and I’m thinking would rule out the HDMI jumper. I reflashed recently, so I was thinking maybe a fried SD card, but trying a different card didn’t help. Admittedly, I do not own an antistatic mat or wristband, but will order a set today. I have been working on a wood surface, but with no wrist band, so there is that possibility that I may have killed the Pi. If the issue was with Onefinity’s board under the Pi, would it present with these symptoms?

Working on grounding and bonding here shortly. I’m just trying to figure out the best way to tie it into the ground prong without shorting. Thinking a ring terminal would be the best way with minimal risk of shorting.



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Did you get an rpi3 or 4

I got a 3B+.

3b is the only one that will work.

This one, correct?

yes, that one is the b (and not the + version which wouldn’t work).

In-house testing of ver 2.0.0 has been using # Raspberry Pi 4 SC15184 Pi (2 gb). How did you get it to boot. Installed one in my machine and it would not boot. Any special instructions used to get it to boot? Would love to have 5G WiFi connection and a little more speed.