Thanks, I am sure it’s a good product. I was curious to see whether it improves on a shop-made solution.
You’ve addressed my curiosity.
Hey Roger,
Do you still have the 65 mm mount installed?
The router or 65 mm spindle that is slid that much downwards into the original 65 mm mount is already a source of adding more leverage force to the system. If you look at professional milling motors, they are always clamped near the bottom where the axle exits the housing. Now instead of adding a second instance of increasing leverage force into the mechanical system as Riser Blocks do, I would rather lift the router / spindle so that it is clamped more at axle end. As you correctly stated, the Z stepper motor is in the way and router / 65 mm spindle would bump the stepper cage. But this problem can be solved by lifting the Z stepper cage using taller stepper mounting blocks (see pic 2) and extending stepper axle with another coupler. The advantage over Riser Blocks between X and Y axes is that 1. you do not add a source of increasing leverage force somewhere in the mechanical system, and 2. you eliminate a source of high leverage force that is present in the original system. The difference is, when you lift the stepper cage, you do not interfere in the stability of the mechanical system between your milling, plunging and feeding bit and the machine base.
Yeah it’s working fine with the riser blocks. No issues with what I use it for
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Hello all.
Does anyone have a profile for making temporary riser blocks out of wood handy?
I am interested in buying the 3D printed ones, but unfortunately, I have a project that cannot wait for delivery.
Before I take my 1F apart, it would be very handy to mill out the blocks first!
Thanks!
Hey Andros
I can ship them tomorrow if you make an order today. And we can change up shipping to make it faster if you are in the United States
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Thanks, I messaged you.
Hi Aiph5u,
I do not understand how the stepper mounting block works, I can see the stl file, but how is it mounted?
Danke, Geige
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Hey Tom,
a little like shown here, except that there the user uses an extruded aluminium profile (instead of two 3D-printed plastic blocks), which I think is much better.
I was thinking to mill the riser blocks out of Aluminum on the 1F. I only need 50mm of added height for the rotary to fit under the z-cage.
Thanks Aiph5u. Now I understand. I think the 60mm spindle is right for me, I do not need much power. Still waiting on the Elite upgrade program before buying a spindle, I really want the Masso to run the Rotary full 4 axxis, without having to unplug anything.
Took 20 hours to print, but it’s solid and heavy.
I gained 45 mm, all I need for now. Second raiser is printing.
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Curious… why not glue some scrap plywood together and use that. Would only need a couple of 3/4" pieces per foot…
would probably save a lot of time, and i wouldn’t trust the print to not collapse under weight and movement (not saying it wouldn’t work, because it might, but unless it’s solid (no gaps) the possibly exists). Depending on how you are screw it down i would also be concerned it would shake off with the higher CG (a tnut and a machine screw would eliminate my fear here)
Just things to consider if you haven’t
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The print is solid, no gaps. There was a lot of distortion due to the plastic cooling. I had to remill the plastic block, but now it is extremely precise, heavy and sturdy. I spent too much time though, Next time I would use aluminum from the beginning. Plywood might be too soft IMHO.
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Hey Chris,
probably the same reason why the Onefinity CNC machine’s feet are made of aluminium and not of plywood 
I’m a utilitarian, so i was just inquiring
Hey Chris,
wood consists of cells that contain liquids (replaced by air when dryed), and this makes the material too compressible for this application. The leverage forces would make the mechanical system too susceptible to bending.
I can’t find what the janka rating of plywood is, but it’s alot… alot more than the cnc is and whatever is added ontop of it. That’s why they use it as a base for your roof and maybe your floor, not to mention for cabinets which can hold large pieces of stone (granite).
If there is going to be any variation of collapse it’ll be in the 1,000ths of an inch
Hey Chris,
from mechanical point of view, there is a big difference between if you put the entire Onefinity on a more than 48" x 48" big table top made of plywood or if you put one single X foot on a plywood piece of 4" x 2.3".
A road may support your car, but a small cube of road surfacing material placed under one wheel possibly not.
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Yes, that’s why i was asking why not… because if you added a small piece per leg it’ll raise it up, without raising the work surface. I found the plywood for my risers in my scrap pile, oversized them for the feet, and screwed them in, then got longer lag bolts and secured the cnc to the subframe.
That’s actually what i did on top of my 5×5 1/2" baltic birch, ontop the torsion box because even with the stock risers it only barely cleared the surface, like maybe 1/8".
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As for your car… there’s a very small piece of it that actually makes contact with the road, basically the size of an index card depending on the size of your tires and inflation level.
Will the road hold it depends on who built it and how good they built it with what kind of materials they used to build it.