Scott, these are lovely. Thanks for sharing your process - one more thing to try and be delighted by.
Jim
Thank you for your kind words Jim. Merry Christmas.
Hi
I like this a lot. I have a file created to do same thing but have not tested it yet.
What is the depth of the wood you used and difference between each water depth?
I have a lake and have 10 depths.
Thanks
It is standard 3/4 inch think quality pine. Each depth is .035 inches, this one also had 10 layers so last depth was .350 deep. One thing I have found I like is to use a down cutting end mill so it leaves a very crisp line around the layers.
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Thanks Bill
So each space between the lines is a separate pocket tool path and run them shallowest to deepest?
Else you couldn’t deal with areas like islands and others that raise back up.
right. first pocket is .00 to .035. Then, level 2 starts at .035 and depth is .070. Level 3 starts at .070 and depth is .105, etc… I thought about this for a while and tried to think of a better way. I figure you have to mill out that material anyway, so doing each level as a pocket made sense to me. also, like you said, if there were islands or levels that got more shallow, which usually is the case, then you have to make sure you keep all of those levels right in your mind when doing the tool paths.
I make a quick excel sheet to keep that straight, and also name the tool path with depths in it, to keep it all clear as possible. Inevitably you will get interrupted and need to remember where you are in the process…
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and here is the example of how I did the titles of each tool path, to keep it clear. I was surprised that it really doesn’t take that long to carve this.
Thanks Bill for all the detail. I appreciate it.
Was it all done with 1/8 bit?
What is the overall size?
Tool would need to have cutting length i would guess of ~3/4 of inch.
Was thinking another option would be to take the image and work on it outside of vcarve and fill the gaps with different gray scales to represent depth to create a 3d drawing that could be used for a 3d carve. Then let the software figure out how to cut it out.
Hi Randy… I thought about a 3D carve as well, but didn’t go down that path yet. I want to experiment with that at some point. Ironically, in this case I actually like seeing the true different layers as that is what people are so use to seeing on maps. However, a 3D view might be very interesting.
Overall size was 15 x 15. And I used a 1/4 down cut end mill for it. That has a long enough cut length for sure.
Back to your comment about filling in with grey scale, if anyone has a good idea for how to do that… I would love to hear it. I use photoshop and have these layers all as different layers, but if you fill in each layer with a different grey color, it still would look layered. You would have to use some sort of gradient to really get it to be a true 3D effect…??
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Agreed, it would still be flat levels but that would still be ok as like you I do like that look.
I think in some video I watched someone did something similar in Inkscape and used a smoothing or fading option to to the layers to create a more 3d natural smooth effect.
My first three 3D cuts…making use of some smaller scraps I had laying around. The sand dollars are walnut and purple heart. The EOD badge is also walnut.
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Magnetic Quick Swap Plates for Suckit Dust Shoe/router Shield made on the Onefinity for the Onefinity.
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Love the crab. I’m a retired Navy tech and have been looking to buy the program to run on my machine the next time I’m back in the states from Iraq. I haven’t ran any 2.5D items yet so it will be a first. Where did you get the file? I’ve seen a few between Etsy and CNC military emblems but looking for a known good one.
Mike
Welcome to the forum Mike. Still an active tech (USAF) for another 14 months until I retire.
CNC military emblems is the way to go. He has good files. I used to think $20 was a lot but then I made an EOD badge in the Aspire trial version. Took me forever to get somewhat happy with it and still can’t use it anyways (since it was made in the trial Aspire version and I only have VCarve Pro). I’m trying to learn Fusion 360 right now, mainly for 3D printing stuff. Unless I get really proficient at it, I think I’ll still be buying my military badges 
Buy from CNC Military Emblems. Get the regular badge version because you can do all the dish stuff in the software (VCarve can at least).
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Thank you for mentioning CNC military emblems! Currently designing a retirement chest and Ive been looking for some of the files he has for sale. Some of the more unique Xmas gifts I made for family this year too. The walnut letters and numbers are for my nephew to play with.
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Just finished this owl in live edge cherry wood. Tried to lay it out so the owl fit in the tree. Danish oil finish.
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Lovely job. What was the carving time on it?
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I ran 1/4 endmill roughing bit 260ipm in a roughing pass by itself 10min 18sec. Then a 1/8 endmill also roughing pass in separate tool path bit at 145ipm cut time 52min, last was a finishing pass using 1.0mm ball nose 1/8 shank at 60ipm total cut time 2 hr 55 min.
Total cut time for the whole project was right at 4 hrs. Dimensions are 12x9 1" thick.
