Looks nice!
I just finished a similar tray.
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I debated for the past 10 months or so whether I should leave them in the cases. Each had its pros and cons. Ultimately I lost a bunch of the cases so my decision was made. Now I cant read some of the numbers on the 1/8" ones so broke out a magnifier and wrote them on the tray. I even debated engraving it, but I figured this I can erase and change if needed.
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Salad dressing DIY setup with calibrated measurement recipe cards. Too much soy & other nasty ingredients in store-bought dressings (even the so-called ‘healthy’ variety), so my wife likes to make her own.
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Somehow, she’s hotter than I remember…
Very clever, I like the choice of materials.
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Thanks Forrest. Kitchen-friendly Corian & vinyl.
The best thing about CNC woodworking is once you’ve made one of something, it’s easy to make two more of the same thing!
I just finished two more little trucks for friend’s kids.
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I made a removable trolling motor mount for my Kayak. Some combo CNC/3D printer work. All I need now is the trolling motor so I can tie up the details and test it out.
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Cat I made for Halloween. Eyes are relief on the back wall so the eyes “follow” you.
LED kit is color changing too.
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My youngest son was so enamored by the cat LED kit that he wanted to use one in his room. We made this sign yesterday for over his bed to use one of the light kits.
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I put the Onefinity to work to create parts for a full gantry upgrade for the little 3018 CNC. I designed new side plates that are located with dowel pins at the bottom (a new addition from the stock machine) that locate the side plates accurately. I also machined very precise fitting holes that locate the 12mm rails thru each side plate. This locates the rails parallel to the table. The previous setup had a bit of slop in both the X and Z axis that caused vibrations & chatter when cutting. Feels good and solid now, with no perceptible play or slop.
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Machines making machines! The parts look great - and function well which is most important. What type of plastic did you use? Also, are the knurled cylinders to allow manual movement of the axes, or do they allow tensioning of the ball screw between the bearings?
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Thanks Tom! I used 1/4" [6.35mm] Garolite G10 (which I happened to have on-hand). It’s an extremely strong tensile strength fiberglass type of material. Seems to have about the same tensile strength as aluminum. I was going to buy some of the same material in .375" [9.525mm], but I felt like the 6.35 material would be plenty sufficient, based on the amount of deflection the small DC spindle would be exerting on the frame.
The knurled knobs (sourced from OpenBuilds) are merely to allow easy manual adjustment of the 3 axis. X and Y have flanged bearings with locking screws to lock onto the leadscrews (which are simply 8mm ACME screws running in Delrin anti-backlash nuts). The Z axis does not employ the flanged bearing, so the knob actually serves double-duty as it runs against a thrust bearing to maintain backlash on Z. I gave up some Z clearance, but I’m only going to be running very thin materials on it. These leadscrews/Delrin nuts/12mm linear rails are the same items I used on my previous X-Carve upgrade, and the worked extremely well.
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Curious about this effect as well, it looks fantastic!
Where did you get the layered plastic from?
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I batched out some cribbage boards last night, out of a spare board. I’m curious about everyone’s thoughts on using logos in sales. For legal reasons, these are going to be gifted to those who donate a specific amount to my company. 
I know that there are a few companies that REALLY crack down on anyone that uses their logo (Disney, Harley Davidson, etc.)
Here are the vector files for anyone intrested.
Also, here is my Instagram to see more CNC content.
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Mike do you have a link for the light kits? Those Dino lights are awesome!