Cool. How do you get consistent laser lines with varying depths? Does the z axis get used with the laser or did you laser and then cut or some other way?
I use vcarve pro for generating all my cutting paths and it has a built in feature to adjust the z for the laser. There are a few different ways I’ve found to do this without vcarve like adjusting the laser focal point to have higher depth of field or programming the vectors to burn at various z heights (very laborious), or limiting your map’s vertical relief to a specific range. But in my experience none look as consistent and seemless as using vcarve.
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Made a shooting range box for a friend’s birthday.
I wanted it to look old so when it gets banged around in the back of the Jeep he won’t feel bad 
Finish is simple paste wax to make it easy to touch up if needed.
In hindsight, I probably should have made the cut at the seam of one of the joints for a little better balance, but this is the lid height I wanted for visual proportions
Someone told me I should use plastic wood to fill in the “dogbones”. I say they make an interesting detail.
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Hey Mike,
to better tolerate being banged around in the jeep and for the lifetime of the bar hinge, I would have made a stepped edge that prevents canting loads of the lid
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Nice Job Mike!
Curious if you used a box making program for all the joints or just made your own file for them?
Thanks.
I used the Box Creator “gadget” in VCarve.
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That is awesome! Keep up the good work.
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Beautiful!
Is it cherry?
How many hours and what bits please.
Pony
Hope a good friend. It’s beautiful. Wish there were a video of this one.
@Pony , thanks! It is cherry with 5 coats of shellac and lined with blue velvet.
Recipe:
- 1/2" upcut bit, 1200 RPM, .006 inch feed per tooth for 216 IPM, 72 IPM plunge, with a 3D adaptive tool path. I leave .03" radially & axially. .25" step down.
- 1/4" upcut whiteside bit, 19000 RPM, .006 inch feed per tooth for 228 IPM feed, 114 IPM plunge feed, with an 3D adaptive tool path. I leave .02 inch stock both radially and axially,
- 1/16" radius tapered ball nose from Spetool, 18000 RPM, .008 inch feed per tooth for 288 IPM feed and 180 IPM plunge feed, using a 45 degree to grain parallel path, no stock to leave, 0.25 * bit diameter (.029356 per fusion)
- .25mm radius tapered ball nose from Spetool, 18000 RPM, .005 inch feed per tooth for 180 IPM and 144 IPM plunge, on a -45 degree to grain (that is to say 90 degrees from the other ball nose) parallel path, no stock to leave, 0.27 * bit diameter stopover (.00485323" according to Fusion). I stepped it up from test at 0.15diameter which took forever with slightly better results and down from 0.3dia which left noticeable tool marks)
working from memory since fusion 360 reported times are not accurate for onefinity, 1/2" took about 15 minutes, 45 minutes with the 1/4" bit. that’s roughing all six sides. 1/16" tapered ball nose roughing was 10 minutes per row of scroll work, the .25mm was 30 minutes per row for the long sides and half that for the short sides. For the top, big ball was an hour and 4 hours for the fine. Not including setup times or bit changes, that looks to be a 8 hours.
@MiBer5, thank you! It is for a good friend who has been acting as our financial planner pro bono as she was moving into retirement.
Here is a detail shot of the lid. while hard to see in the pic, I did a gold epoxy pour around the edge…mostly to hide that I was not paying close attention when I mitered the sides. Left a gap, worse it was uneven when comparing the long and short sides. Threw it on the router table for an even 1/8" border all around.
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Made two of these this weekend. A mod of something I’d seen elsewhere. The 1F makes great toy wheels! Used screws as axels in inserts, these are installed with loctite to keep them installed.
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Hi Mitch,
Where did you get the file from for the scroll work and the roses on the lid?
Hi @lucasjhayden-
I got them both from Etsy, the
Roses and a file with lots of Lots of borders. The borders were a bit problematic. There are a ton in the stl file. I had to do some work to copy the one I wanted, then repair the mesh since it was a shell and not water tight. A little mesh manipulation to get it to the correct length for each side without distorting it. All in all, a bit more work than I planned but learned some got meshwork skills along the way.
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It took me over a year, but I finally got around to making your cookie box design. I had a few issues with the hardware and magnets since the ones I purchased had slightly different dimensions. Other than that it was a fun little project. I’ve got some more walnut tree scraps so I think I will make a few more. Thanks again for sharing your design with me.
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That is very nice, about how large is it?
Pat
BuyPlastic has the King ColorCore and the price is about half the price.
Wow, thanks Rex for sharing 
I‘m glad you like it. Walnut looks great too, I love it. 
It was a pleasure to share my plans with you.
Kind regards,
Joey
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Very nice! Beautiful graining & colors.
What finish did you use?
Pony