If you use oil or cutting fluid (vs a mister with IPA), you might want to use a piece of 1/8" tempered hardboard on top of your spoilboard. You can pin it into place with a pin nailer, brads or staples. That way any overspray or excess oil will be captured by the hardboard and not soak into the MDF spoilboard. You can hold your material down using blue tape/superglue or double-sided tape.
When you’re done, just pop a flat paint scraper or other wide blade and lever off the hardboard. It’ll come off easily leaving your spoilboard unspoiled
Thanks for the tip! I actually have an HDPE wasteboard with T-nuts so the oil is not a problem. I started off using the double-sided tape method, but now that my wasteboard is finished, I mainly use cam-style clamps in combination with some machining parallels.
I worked as a machinist in Aerospace. We were only allowed to use coconut oil or griddle fry made from coconut oil. It is nontoxic and safe to breathe. Cutting oils were banned from the shop. Cutting oils will soak into the grans of the metal and come out in zero G’s was another reason. Coconut oil is easy to clean.
WOW! That’s perfect, as we are in a high school machine shop. I saw a lot of products containing chlorine and some other nasty stuff and didn’t want to use those products. We have a few ounces of “legit” cutting oil in the shop, but I think we will switch to a natural/safe alternative when that stuff runs out.
Hey Alphonse, there is no flex whatsoever. The T-nuts are 2" apart and the holes are only 1/4" in diameter, We used a 3/4" sheet, secured with 6 bolts through the bottom of our table, so it’s pretty solid. The T-nuts bit in nicely to the HDPE.
I did in fact surface the board once it was installed and bolted firmly.
If I recall, it was around ~120IPM, with a 1.25in surfacing bit. It wasn’t really a proper surfacing bit, but I used what I had. If you run into chip welding or long swirls coming off, run a slotting operation perpendicular to the surfacing tool path (this interruption will break the chips/swarf).
BTW, I milled the pockets and bores first, removed the wasteboard, hammered in the T-nuts, flipped it, then installed the board to surface it.
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thank you for the tip and for the cutting information!