For anyone else doing a search on how to improve their tiling game, ensure that you’ve 1)made your 1F coplanar, 2)made it square, and 3)ensured that your model’s distance is the distance that is travelled in real life.
To that, I might add 4)when you do your tiling material reference holes, ensure that you’ve recorded your 0,0 offsets. From these boards (specifically here, and here), I’ve gleaned that this is the only way (short of some fancy homing switches) to get your 1F within decent tolerances of your previously cut reference holes (if, say you incorporated 19.05mm/.75" dogs and 20mm dogs as extremely flexible reference pegs and as an incorporated clamping system).
That way, any placement grid you might do as one of your first projects and your 96mm-on-center (or whatever) dog holes, which will help you both to line up future large workpieces for tiling, and help you keep alignment when you replace individual spoil boards (I have the QCW, and have already replaced the first spoil board strip because the reference doghouse were out-of-whack…I’ll likely replace the 2nd as well, but noting the offset this time).
With 4) above, I may be way off base, as I am still learning the ropes and building experience with the 1F J-man and wheeled/portable QCW (from below). Anyone with the knowledge, please chime in and school me if I’m wrong.