I’d be willing to rent mine!
Same price? I’d highly recommend avoiding usps with their issues. Fyi…
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Yup! Shoot me a PM and I’ll get your shipping info
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Yes it does, I just got it back from @MarksCustomWoodshop so it is available if your interested. Please PM me and we can arrange it.
-Alex
Thanks to both of you. After more research, I don’t actually think I need one right now. I’ll hit you guys up if I end up needing to rent one. Thanks!
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Sounds good Patrick… good luck and Merry Christmas!!
-Alex
I used to maintain CNC lathes and mills in one of my past careers. Part of this was to verify and realign any axis after maintenance or an event where the machine was crashed by tramming them and them assessing the best course of action to correct any issues found.
My plan for when I get my Onefinity Woodworker is to put a 2" long, 0.250" gauge pin in the router collet, ensuring it is inserted at least 1/2" and then gently spin the motor by hand with a dial indicator almost to the end of the pin to check spindle/collet runout. For this the dial indicator should be mounted on the router, clamp or Z-Axis and not the table or gantry. This is good to know anyways in case you are experiencing bad cut quality/finish at higher speeds or cutting over size due to excessive runout of the spindle or collet issues. sometimes this can be caused by a burr on the spindle taper, collet or collet nut and can be fixed by carful use of a file and/or lapping.
If the runout is acceptable (0.001" or less) I am then going move the dial indicator to the table or gantry itself to then tram the side of the gauge pin parallel to the gantry axis from collet to its end by jogging the Z-Axis. I will then repeat this for the side of the pin perpendicular to the gantry axis. This will tell me if the router and clamp are true to the travel of the Z-Axis and if any adjustments are needed by shimming the top or bottom of the clamp or by rotating the clamp on the Z-Axis slide.
Most likely it will only need to be rotated. If the router and clamp needed to be adjusted, I would loosen each bolt one at a time and then finger snug them as to keep it in the same position yet still be able to be moved with light taps from a small plastic dead blow hammer until there was minimal (or no) movement on the dial indicator when tramming the length of the pin. Once aligned to the Z-Axis travel, torque the bolts and verify nothing moved.
All of this is probably WAY over the top and just hitting it with a square to make sure it isn’t skewed off to a 5° angle is more than sufficient in most cases, but my OCD wont let me not check it… lol
Happy Holidays everyone!
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I am very interested to see how this process turns out. To address the chicken or the egg in the room, will you be doing a wasteboard flattening first and then checking the tram? Is it a good idea to flatten once then tram then flatten again and repeat that process a couple times? Or do you think repeating just one time is enough to be true enough for a woodworking machine like this?
Soooo… I was looking at the machine assembly and construction incorrectly. I thought the Z-Axis was part of the gantry assembly and the router clamp came separately. I just watched the assembly video and realized my mistake. My thought process would have been all wrong and would only proven spindle/collet runout and that the (already mounted) router clamp was true to the Z-Axis when the reality is the Z-Axis itself needs to be trued up to the gantry, which in fact would be the bed after a good flattening.
I would probably hit it with a square from the bed to the Z-Axis initially, do a flattening run on the spoilboard, and then use the dual dial tramming tool after to get it really dialed in. (pun intended)
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I’m definitely tracking you now. That’s what I was thinking I would do it when the machine comes in. I actually hadn’t even considered checking the spindle run out because it’s a inexpensive router, and I can’t imagine it’s going to have a great runout spec. And everyone loves a good machinist pun!
*edited to fix autocorrect hilariousness.
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I know this thread is a little older and hope I’m not late to the party. This pic I’ve attached, is this indicative of needing to tram the Z axis? It’s a 1/4” bit with a .11 step over. I’m new to the CNC game but I’m in love. I’ve noticed this when pocketing really. Not on any other cuts.
Yes you def need to tram the Z!
Well, maybe (likely). If the ridges are pronounced when you run your finger over them or your fingernail gets catch on them, then yes. If not, then no. You will likely always see some milling marks because of the way material is removed, but you should not feel any of the milling marks.
Well I trammed it and man what a difference! Now I didn’t do the methods y’all used and I’m sure it’s no where near as accurate but the results are fantastic. I could, as you mentioned, rub my finger across and feed the ridges very pronounced. Now I can barely see the lines and I’m sure if I changed the step over it would be even less visible. But I’m glad I found this and thank you all for helping noobs as me!!
Glad it worked out for you Matt. Can’t wait to see the results.
What is the correct way to tram the onefinity? Is the right way just shimming with paper and tinfoil around the router?
-I’ve got a dual dial.
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You can also shim the axis mounting blocks.
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I’m too mesmerized by that burl to answer the question… 
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Left-to-right is easy enough via the Z-Axis slider screws: Support: Tramming Z Slider - YouTube
If you use a dual dial to do front-to-back tramming (via the mounting blocks on the x-axis), be careful not to lift the Z-Axis too quickly.
Mine bent like soft butter 
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I just used a piece of 1/4 inch steel rod with two approx. 90 degree bends and an old set of automotive feeler guages
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