DISCLAIMER: I am not, have not, nor claim to being an Electrician, Electrical Engineer, employee of UL, or of having more than 2 brain cells to mash together. That said, this if for “informational purposes only” if you decide to jump off the cliff with me… proceed at you own risk, electricity is dangerous!
Glad we got that out of the way! Now onto the fun stuff.
As I’m sure a lot of you agree the darn cord on the Makita is great for trim routing, horrible for CNC work… So I got rid of mine.
First off you will need to get one of the coil cords I (and others have discussed) and disassemble your Makita (took me a total of 4 min for this part) Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the router and then slice your factory label with an X-acto knife (THIS PROBABLY VOIDS YOUR MAKITA WARRANTY, as if this whole thread doesn’t already do that)
Remove the 2 screws that hold the cord and cord stress relief. Then strip off one end of the Coil cord (DO NOT CUT IT SHORTER) loosen the 2 set screws on the connector and remove the factor cord & stress relief.
Next: Run the cord through the stress relief and through the old cord path, and connect the black wire to the black and white to white, tighten screws. Fit the stress relief back in its retaining slot and put the router back together.
Then using your amazing solder/shrink wrap/taping skills take the old end of the router cord (I would cut off the last 4" as it gets pretty smashed from being in the keeper) and attach it to the other end of your beautiful Coil Cord… BAM (If I only had on my white Chef’s apron) you have a router with a nice long cord of which the first 6’ is coil city.
Reinstall your router in the Z-Axis and I (already having removed the old cord from the OF keeper plate it was originally routed through) then I took a black zip-tie and wrapped the cord just before the first loop and stuck it through the old cord track. Then, cut the very end off of a 2nd zip-tie and used it as a nut (if you will) to retain the zip-tie and adjust the length. I’m sure some of you super genius Fusion 360 guru’s like @RowdyRoman , @Greg and others will likely come up with some custom 3D printed mount and way to secure the cord better, which I would happy to swap to if they do.
Then I just ran the cord through a mount that @Garrett created (I had to chop it up a bit to allow for my drag chain mount, but it sill works as ugly as it is) and slipped it right into my drag chain.
The rest is history…
See it in action here: Zero binding, plenty of length and completely out of the way. Please excuse the shaky movements as it turns out, its harder than I expected to video and use a gamepad.
Hope you enjoyed today’s lesson on how to possibly electrocute yourself and make your OF that much better. (Humble opinion inserted throughout)
PS: @Mark any idea why my Z-Axis nut makes that darn clicking noise… very annoying. It did not used to do it.