I particularly like the (last) two-tone fish.
I tried a single scallop toolpath with tab surface avoidance, but the simulation shows the same problem I had with the tabs causing a change to the path. Was worth a try. My 2 scallop toolpaths do not really add extra time, as I can post them as one with the free F360 version given the same end mill is used.
Maybe it’s because the tabs are in the model? Scallop will use everything in the model to compute the tool path. Try it with the tabs not in the model but brought in only for the avoid reference.
Thanks, that was a two pour epoxy project. I started each pour with a light mix of toner and gradually added more as I poured to get varied tone to each color.
Thank you again. I wondered if that would be the difference, as you mentioned earlier yours were separate components. I will give it a try.
Shellac for the seal? How did you finish the piece after the pour and mill? Sanded down?
Ready for first pour
Ready for second cut
I take all the tape off after each pour
The problem is with this method the machine is tied up till the second cut is done, so, I cut and pour number one at end of day and then cut and pour number two the next day around noon. The marker lines in the first pour are to give highlights through the epoxy,
The way I designed the pattern leaves .004 of wood between the ppours which you wouldn’t think would dhow but if you look close at the two tone fish you can see the wood lines between the pours. Who’d of thunk?
I use center (16X–16Y) for layout and use machinist gauges to set Z. Makes turning off the machine and restarting the next day a snap. Set limits then go back to 16X–16Y and set them as ‘0’
I make sure that I am taped off befor applying sanding sealer, that way i don’t have it to interfere with my oil finish. The sanding sealer works good but I’ve found that it needs to be applied liberally on some woods. Yellow pine is notorious for bleeding as is oak. Walnut not so. After the last pour i mill off .0312, sand starting with 120 and working my way to 220—400 then i apply Teak oil on the fish signs or Tung oil on charcuterie boards. Both penetrate nicely and leave a hard, lasting surface.
The first mill/pour and ready to pour the lower portion of the fish
The caulking is to keep my sometimes overzealous pour from running amok.
I’ve been struggling to get Oramask to stick to my cutting boards without flying off during the cut. I Even roll it after applying to get it to stick but it doesnt grip in some areas. I think I may need to sand the top surface with 220 grit before applying.
I have never used Oramask. I only use tape after I cut before I pour epoxy. I always try to get all of the tape off before I do any cutting, afraid the tape will cause bit to overheat. What is the purpose of the Ormask?
You can mask your piece before doing the carve and the bit creates a perfect masking (in theory) of the top face.
Nice. We’re a Model M family. Would you mind sharing the code for it?
I unwittingly became an address sign supplier for a new manufactured home community in Arizona where we are buying a new home. I showed the developer the address sign I had already made for my own new home. He loved it, and asked if I’d like to supply ALL the new homes going in (120 homes) so they would all be uniform in appearance. I said sure, and set about making a decent fixture.
The flip-side of this fixture is for cutting the sign blanks out of 12" [305mm] x 24" [610mm] pieces of HDPE Color Core material. The side shown is pocketed for the sign blanks, so when he gives me an order I will already have several sign blanks cut out (with holes & chamfers) so that all I need to do is drop the pieces into this nesting fixture to cut & chamfer the numbers.
12002, 12012, 12021… my dyslexia hurts!!
Not to take away from your effort and work, but this would be a perfect project for a 3D printer!
I’ve made a house number for my mailbox using Bambu PS1 with AMS (white background, black numbers).
Reminds me of trying to remember the combination to my bike lock as a child…
I was approached by someone to make signs for a travel softball organization and have been looking at Color Core. May I ask what bits and speeds and feeds you’re using? Thank you and should I say congrats on your new project? . They look great
I’m using a somewhat short 1/8" 4-flute cutter (2 flute may work better, but 4 does just fine) for cutting out the blanks and the numbers. I use a 45 deg single flute insert cutter to put in the hole c’sinks, the outside edge chamfer, and the chamfer around the numbers.
I tend to run my feeds & speeds very conservatively, so I think both cutters are set at 30 ipm. I meant to go back into my programs to up the 45 deg cutter to 60 ipm, as it’s removing such little material.
I will say that this stuff is amazing to work with. It’s soft, and not prone to overheating the cutter or gumming up as acrylic or polycarbonate material does. I love that it is not the least bit dusty to cut, and only creates chips that vacuum up very easily.
Color Core would probably be the perfect material for your signs. It’s a very durable material and looks great when carved.
A couple of hints when working with it:
Once cutting is completed, use a nylon bristle brush to clean up any fuzzies that may stick to it. Never use a wire brush, as this will burnish the surface, and ruin the appearance. It’s durable, but the surface can become damaged if not careful.
Always remove the plastic film before cutting, as it is prone to getting wound up around the cutter very easily.
I always go around any cut features with the 45 deg. cutter to give it a very clean, professional appearance and remove the burrs & fuzzies created by the previous cut operations. You may try a down-cut end mill if you don’t want to be bothered with this operation. I presume this would work well, but I have not tried it.
Here’s some other examples of signs I’ve made using Color Core.
The top one was the old version I reverse-engineered to create the bottom one.
And finally, I can highly recommend buyplastics.com as a good place to purchase from.
Those signs look great! I looking forward to working with it when my Elite gets here. I appreciate the information you gave. Gives me a good starting point.