Thanks! I use qgis to generate both the stl and laser vector files.
@crashaffinity - this is a 20x30in. In terms of cutting and lasering, it’s about 14 hrs total. In terms of programming/creating vector and cam files, sanding, finishing and everything else… it takes me longer. But there are faster and easier ways if all you want is to cut a low res map.
8x15. Took around 4.5 hours. The roughing I used the IDC Woodcraft Beast and Badger that was done in a total of 43 mins for both, but the final was with a 30 degreee and the and the border was done with a 1/4 ball nose. Here are some pictures of each stage.
Here is my first significant project with my Onefinity. It is red oak and was cut with a 30 degree engraving bit and a 1/4 inch down cut endmill. I applied VViViD vinyl masking film before cutting to keep the paint off of non-painted surfaces.
It was hand painted but I am wondering if it could have been painted with an airbrush? If anyone is using an airbrush for finishing, what do you think? Would it be possible to paint all of the nooks and crannies without pooling? Is it possible to spray sanding sealer with an airbrush?
First large run of laser etching… 120 shot glasses double sided for Daughter’s wedding in about a week. Just needs a little water and some light scrubbing to get the acrylic paint off. Now I just need to come up with the speech/toast…
Wow,Dean, I’m really liking your project. That speech had better be pretty good as everyone toasts with those glasses.
That’s awesome, I can’t tell if that dollar is carved or real! Really nice design!!
BTDTGTTS (2x). Well, at least the easy part is done. 
Only have to do 1X, then it is just the son left and that should be easier…
Did you develop the design/profiles yourself. If so, what software are you using?
Custom design inspired from image searches .I use Fusion 360 as my go to for both CAD and CAM.work. I use SolidWorks professionally as well and really like it, it’s just too expensive for hobby use.
Looks great.
I’m astonished that only took 14-odd hours. Care to share feeds and speeds, stepovers and what bits you used?
The large waterways are painted black?
-Mark
Thanks. Yeah, the cutting portion takes about 12 hours with the Elite machine. Before I upgraded, my old journeyman would take almost twice that time to cut.
In terms of the feeds, I use pretty generic recommended chip loads for any 3d carve. 1/4" milling bit for roughing (150ipm IIRC), tapered 1/8" ballnose (140ipm) bit for finish pass. Stepover of 8-10% depending on the map resolution.
The water is painted to some degree. I laser (hatch fill) the water bodies, but since it’s cutting plywood, you get a fairly uneven appearance in some areas. I use a black paint marker to fill in the lighter areas.
That is very nice, tried spraying paint on parts like this and bad results for me, hand painting with masking works good for me.
Pat
Thanks for the feedback.
That sliding piece on the back of the cribbage board, what mechanism are you using to hold the piece? Are the edges cut at an angle? If so was that angle cut on the CNC or a table saw?
For the peg storage, I use an end mill and a dovetail bit in my 1F and the sliding piece or cover, I make it on my router table using the same dovetail bit, generally the cover is a tight sliding fit as it is fit by hand, if it becomes too loose, I put a dab of hot glue on the underside and shave it down to a few thousands thick so the cover doesn’t slide out by itself.
I am sure you could automate making the cover in the CNC but it only takes me a few minutes to do by hand in the router table.
Pat
ok so you are using a 14 degree angle from a dovetail bit, that makes perfect sense. I do something completely different but use the same technique of opposing angles. I have been using the Table saw set to 22.5 degrees with a Sled but was wanting something more precise and repeatable so to speak.
