Testing and tuning OF for accuracy

Yes I do and did. Learn something new everyday (so far only me and you clicked the wiki). So how do you view the wiki?

Hi, this is Aiph5u! I edited AndyP’s post, since he made it a wiki post!

UPDATE: You now may see the Editing history if you click on the little orange button on the top right of the posting.

Could one of you clarify how you envision this feature being used, as well as how you feel it should be organized/structured?

Sure Tom:

Frequently Asked questions

Hardware setting up

  1. How do I square my CNC machine?
    answer answer answer… (<- Try editing this Tom if you like)
  2. I just received my Journeyman. But in X direction, it uses only two thirds of the width, and the circles that I mill are not cirles but ovals.
    Your Journeyman X-50 has a 1616 ballscrew, whilst the default setting in your Onefinity controller is for a 1610 ballscrew. On the Motors tab, you have to edit the travel-per-rev setting from 10 to 16.
  3. … and so on…

Further Reading

UPDATE: This is off-topic in this thread and continues here: Forum User’s FAQ (Test mode)

Having looked at the tramming tools at Amazon and having seen the bent shank on the unit shown above, I looked a little farther and found one that seems to be a bit nicer. The shank is a 1/2" blank with a 1/4" hardened dowel pressed into it. The dial indicators they use measure to .0005. All but the indicators is made in USA. “For a Few Dollars More …”
https://boringresearch.com/store/desktop-spindle-square/

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I found this video quite helpful. OK I agree it’s fairly primitive but it works very well. Depends on what sort of accuracy you are looking for.

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This arrived today from a company who’s name ya’ gotta’ love! “Boring Research.” The pictures do not do it justice. It is artfully made and has a really nice/secure case. Note the .0005 resolution.


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Thats very cool looking. But why would you want two sensors?

It is a tramming gauge. the shank goes in the router/spindle and then you turn the device so one dial is on the left and one is on the right. You then adjust any left/right tilt out of the router until both gauges read the same (not necessarily zero). Then you redo the procedure with the dials front and back. Rinse and repeat until the router/spindle is as close to absolute 90 degrees to the work surface as you can get it. Legend has it that there was once a person who actually got his setup at exactly 90 degrees. His machine has been placed at Area 51 and he was seen being whisked away by men in dark clothing in the silent hours of the night.

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But cant you just rotate a single dial around 180 degrees and get the same information with one fewer measurement to match? Seems like an extra and unneeded step to register one to the other. Thats a great simplification of a rotating effector like our spindle/routers. Dont get me wrong the tool looks super cool just not clear the value add of that second dial.

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Well, as a decidedly NON engineer, (I made my living as a musician,) it seems to me that this instrument eliminates rather than adds a step. There are four areas to calibrate; front, rear, left, and right. These occur in pairs; front and back, and left and right. Within each of those pairs, an adjustment on one area affects adjustment in the other area. Granted, since the effect should be equal and opposite, an experienced and confident person might do the math and be pretty close on the first or second try. Nonetheless, to confirm 90 degrees for either pair, one would need to move the single gauge from left to right or front to back at least a time or two. With the tramming tool, any adjustment in one area registers immediately and precisely in the other. Get the gauges to read the same and you are dead nuts.

So, for me at least, this means fewer steps, fewer “opportunities” for mistakes, more confidence, and a greater chance I’ll get to meet new friends at Area 51. Besides, it IS a cool tool. On a level with those made by Bridge City of old. I’ll never be a millionaire, but it is very satisfying to own fine things that I can afford.

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I can’t comment either way, but it looks pretty steampunk-ish (I’m probably too old to say cool, although my sons would probably say ‘sick’, which I never understand).

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Steampunk is the ultimate sick!

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Hi Chris,

Can you share a link to the video you found for fixing the x axis problem? I’m having the same issue.

Thanks.

Hi Matt,

Here it is…Hopefully it will fix the situation for you.

-Chris

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Hey I watch your vids every night before i pass out cool man!

Thanks Thomas - I appreciate the positive feedback. Any ideas for new videos you might want to see? :slightly_smiling_face:

-Tom

It’s more than 2 years later and I just found your post. It is very well done and very helpful! I was able to dial in the Y axes which was off the tiniest amount, but now it is dead on! Still having an issue making a perfect 1" square in Vcarve Pro but I know I’ll find the answer, (thank you Lord). Thanks again for the awesome info you shared!

Bill C. New Mexico

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I hasve a sugestion. as I also dabble in metal work i have machinist jacks they are little bitty things if you put on under your z carriage and "lift one or the other to straighten your carriage when you snug down the carriage it will not move to the same point then just loosen the machinist jack and you should be good to go i have done this to tram my metal cutting mill and it works great. HTTPs://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Warranty-52-104-025-0-Machinist-capacity/dp/B00B5HONN2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2KUY5ULHM16G2&keywords=machinist+jack+screw+set&qid=1673993173&sprefix=machiniste+jack%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-4

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