Makita Bearing went Bad

Makita bearing went bad.
I’ve only had my setup (X50) 6 months and the bearing went bad. I use my CNC as a hobbyist NOT for production. I’m surprised it went bad so soon.

Is it possible lateral forces due to deep cuts caused this to fail pre-maturely?

Looks like there’s major dust ingress.

Anyone else have Makita bearings go bad?
Good place to buy replacements?

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I got my machine 10.25 months ago, and I have not had my Makita go bad, YET. But now that you posted this, I’m pretty sure it’s about to do the same. Especially after I just finished using the large 1.25" diameter surfacing bit, I could hear this unsettling humming sound that I never heard come from it before but sounds like the wheel bearings on my car at about 45 Mph. I slowed the feed and RPM down some and while it is actually cutting the sound goes away. But returns after the bit goes to do a rapid move. I double-checked the bit is in the collet securely and not too far or too shallow within.

We have to keep in mind these are handheld trim routers designed for a contractor to run across a countertop, stop for an hour or more, then do a couple window sills and call it a day. I just finished another 3D carving that lasted 10 hours. They’re just not made for that day-after-day. BUT, Jeff Bezos has them listed on his website for ~$125. I just paid $43 for an end mill and would think when valuing your time of replacing an already worn out part of something that can be all new, chuck it up to yearly maintenance cost?

[Edit] Or, upgrade to a spindle which are designed for these things.

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I’m using a 1.25 flattening bit too. That bit is massive.

I’m going to change the bearing. Found a few videos on the change. Plus, the bearings are inexpensive.

I would think a good quality spindle can handle big bits like this.


This is what happens when you ignore bearings going bad long enough

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You let the magic out! :grimacing:

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Maybe I should just go right to a spindle…

You won’t regret it, buy another Makita and you will be in the same boat soon

Here’s a bunch more info on this situation. You can’t run end mills that are bigger than 1/4" or run a low speed for a long duration. This router is a joke. You have to go to a spindle to do anything seriously; even for a hobby user.

One thing that 1F is right about is that the Makita is good for the learning curve. Getting to know CAM with its ‘Speeds and Feeds’ and all the rest isn’t a walk in the park. The spindle installation looks like it’s another complex step.

Got the bearing out.
Packed with wood dust.
New bearings come tomorrow.

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FYI…
New bearing on Amazon for $6.
Let’s see how long this lasts.

Yes, definetly going to upgrade to a spindle.
I’ve upgraded the Z axis to the Z-20 (Heavy Duty Z-Slider).

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Do you have a link to the bearing or know the correct size?

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That is interesting, the bearing doesn’t look to have failed from overloading, a little too much fibrous lubrication.

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You won’t be immune with a spindle.

I bought a Mechatron spindle, believing it would last longer than a Chinese product.

I’ve flattened the Journeyman bed once (2" bit) but mostly used very tiny-tipped (0.01") single-flute carbide cutters on brass. Cutting times of 3-5 hours at 24,000 RPM. The spindle is cooled by a Mechatron water pump.

I knew that the pump begins at room temperature (22 C) and in short uses, increased to 24 C. I wasn’t surprised to see 28 C but noticed an odd odor that I couldn’t confirm to be from the spindle. As it approached 31 C I realized the air circulation around the cooling pump was poor. I adjusted that, but the next event showed I was too late. Within minutes the VFD error code (“OC-3”) told me the resistance was too great, and it shut down.

It ran after re-setting, but the sound was very rough. After cooling, the sound was less rough, and it made a couple more runs. But even when fully cooled and turning by hand, the bearings are rough. I’m waiting for Mechatron to tell me whether repair or replacement are my options.

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Hey Russel, hey Pat, hey all,

true, that looks like damage exclusively from wood dust. A clear indication of inadequate dust extraction.

You know that not only these bearings, but also the ball screws of the CNC machine are incompatible with wood dust?

As you can see on the fan blades, the fan sucks the air from the back of the machine (this is always the case, also on air-cooled spindles). Usually you should have no wood dust there.

How do you extract the dust from your CNC machine?

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Hey David,

which cooling system do you have? The cooling stations have a big fan.

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Hey Russel,

this can always be possible, but the wood dust here is not where it should be.

I have to wonder if the $6.00 bearing from Amazon is rated for high speed or even if the original bearing from Makita is as well?

For dust collection I use a Rigid shop vac here.
It’s used with 2.5" vacuum hose throughout and a cyclone separator.
I’ve used this the entire time.

You really thinks that’s it? Not enough vacuum?

What do you suggest for a proper vacuum?

Russ

Hey Russell,

a cyclonic dust separator always takes some suction power (even if you find it basically useful). I own a workshop vacuum cleaner with cyclonic separator too, but I don’t consider a workshop vacuum cleaner to be the right thing to extract the dust from stationary machines at all. They go with sanders and other hand tools etc. which always have an extraction fan inside, but on a CNC milling machine, like on a table saw or a thicknessing planer, you have to span larger distances when sucking.

(By the way, your link gives “Access Denied
You don’t have permission to access “http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-16-Gallon-6-5-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Cart-Fine-Dust-Filter-Locking-Hose-and-Accessories-HD1800/304795088” on this server.”
)

me personally, no vacuum at all. See here

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How did the dust ingress so badly?
The bearings are not in direct line of the airflow (both vacuum and the router cooling blades). The bearings had covers on each side. Not sure if this make them “sealed” bearings?

The route of the dust particles is around the complete bearing assembly…
BUT obviously the inside of the bearings are saturated with dust particles.

Can someone explain this?

I use this dust boot bought off Etsy: Dustimator © for Onefinity CNC - Makita RT0701C- (with magnetic removeable 2" bristles base).

My dust collection was not nothing. See my previous description of my dust collection.

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