The drag chains are both 30mm wide (Internal) and after having special clips made to carry the coolant pipes along the hose I decided I didn’t like them due to the weight hanging on the hose and hose boom etc.
So I’m replacing the drag chains with 50mm wide ones so I can route the coolant pipes through the drag chains and thus the hose clamp will just be long enough !!! (it was the longest one)
I’ve managed to get the drag chain support brackets re designed to take the 50mm drag chains, I’m just waiting for them to be delivered.
I was waiting for a friend to come over and help me sort the RS485 out, but he’s not been yet so I’m controlling via the inverter key pad. I’m not very good with electronics but have a suspicion its something connected to the breakout box on the control not connecting properly because I’ve tried several breakout boxes and none work
do you have drag chains on you setup, ? if not I will have a set (30mm) available if your interested
Ah, good to know, because I will need at least 50 mm wide chains too. I will give a try to this PwnCNC v8 first so I was interested in knowing which length for hose clamp when using this chain width. Thank you!
it seems to work really well, but two things I think are worth considering
its not as easy when using the tool probe, it gets in the way as its not easy to remove as you have to disconnect the hose to be able to pull it out from the front, it would be much better if you could pull it out from the back but the legs stop that.
it restricts you height of material because the V8 hits z axis frame so anything particularly hight is difficult to use it with.
Yes, that’s why I modified mine so I could bring the dust boot out the back for bit changes and zeroing as shown below. Only been a few days but so far the boot has not come loose in use. The magnets seem to be strong enough to hold. No doubt if I bump into something that might be a problem. I’ve been thinking of how to improve on this and have a couple ideas rattling around in my head.
Before I hacked mine I looked, didn’t find anything from anyone with a rear exit. So I took the saw to mine and cut out the end of the channel. Just that small square is all that had to go then a little clean up with a smooth file and utility knife. Took me 15 minutes to do both.
SketchUp works. You can still get the free 2017 version of SketchUp (SketchUp Make 2017). That was the last stand alone desktop version. Now it’s a subscription model and not cheap, but the current version (SU 2022 Pro) has loads more functions that SU Make 2017.
" We still have SketchUp Make 2017 available for free download here. Be sure to download Make, not Pro, for the free version. This can be used on Mac or Windows OS for personal projects. It includes 30 days of Pro, after which the Pro features will turn off and you’ll have the free Make version."
Dave, I use Fusion 360. It is extremely powerful but was bit deep and wide for me at times! The trick for me was to understand and develop strategies of how to sketch and then expand the sketch into 3D. Learning by doing was the fastest route! So getting a 3D printer can only help in my opinion.
I have had good success with modeling parts and then exporting the files over to the Prusa. The dust boot arms in the photo above were modeled in Fusion and then printed on a Prusa Mini +.
Ref. Fusion training - I started out about 5 years ago with some metalworking stuff I was doing and eventually started following a gent named Lars Christensen. But today I too would recommend Product Design Online.
A 3D printer and Fusion will also help you think in terms of 3D modeling for VCarve Pro if you go that route. The modeling strategies are similar. I use both Fusion and VCarve.