I have an 80mm spindle wc 1.5kw 110v system set up with my 1F.
I have set up the vfd parameters to the best of my knowledge and many videos…lol
I can press run and motor will spin up to 400Hz but the dial control on vfd does nothing for me.
This is a closed loop between the motor and vfd just to test out function and learn more before incorporating the 1F.
Any ideas, is this a bad vfd…?
I have an 80mm spindle wc 1.5kw 110v system set up with my 1F.
videos, aha. And did you read the VFD manual?
EDIT: I see you have uploaded the photos.
Yes, I have been reading and re reading the manual.
The VFD is model H100-1.5S2
Then it makes no sense to follow instructions for Huanyang VFDs (at least not for the names of settings and jumpers).
Me I have not. Isn’t the potentiometer mentioned somewhere?
If yes, have you set F002 to 3 and F001 to 0?
First of all, have you set the mandatory settings according to your spindle manual:
- Rated spindle voltage
- Rated spindle current
- Number of magnetic poles of spindle
- Maximum spindle speed
- Minimum spindle speed
As others have said you have to enable the knob before the VFD will recognize input from it. But there’s other settings you’re going to want to change. For example if it’s reading hertz for speed you’ll most likely want to change it to read RPM.
Thank you , the F002 to 3 is what did it!!!
As for the settings, I have input the poles 2, hertz 400, volts 110 etc for the 1.5kw 110volt 400Hz spindle motor. Big Thanks
As for the 0-185 function codes and how they relate to your: voltage, motor, system controller and options and features. Would be great to see a few spread sheets with function descriptions and some starting configurations relating to 1F users. Like Green highlight= minimum settings to adjust for running your, Voltage, Spindle/Motor. Then another color highlighting the functions for wiring 1F in with the VFD and spindle Maybe a 3rd color for options and special features.
I can see right away the wiring is terrible at best on this unit out of the box. I will upgrade like I have seen others here do.
Lastly I will incorporate the 1F controller inline with the vfd for a more seamless experience. I just have not figured out what physical parts I will need yet.
That would be great if it output RPM vs Hz, now to find that setting…Thanks
you can zap through displaying frequency, current, rotating speed, voltage, counter,
temperature, forward/reverse status, fault, etc. with the keys on the operator panel.
For setting default monitored value to “rotational speed” try to set F170 to 2.
Also since most 24000 RPM spindles with magnetic 2 poles have a minimum speed allowed by manufacturer of something between 8000 and 6000 RPM and running them slower can damage them, it would be good to set “F011 Lower limit of frequency” to something between 133 and 100 Hz.
The rotational speed of the spindle is calculated this way:
e.g. 400 Hertz × 2 × 60 seconds / 2 poles = 24,000 rpm.
e.g. 133 Hertz × 2 × 60 seconds / 2 poles = 8,000 rpm.
e.g. 100 Hertz × 2 × 60 seconds / 2 poles = 6,000 rpm.
Alright now that I know this unit is working as expected I am moving forward and buying some better cables.
Just picked up a cable off Ebay, VFD Cable 10ft 16/4 DS Flexion For Spindle .8Kw 1.5Kw.
Any suggestions on converting the 2 wire power in, to have a ground wire?
I just found my DB25 breakout module…forgot I even got this pc it’s been a while…lol
Keep pushing forward…
See also here:
So a good power cable for the wall to the vfd would be a 15 gauge 4 wire cord pre wired on one side with a 3 prong plug and loose wires on the other end to except xxx type connector to solder or pinch on?
No, not 4 wires on input. For VFD input, which means wall outlet to VFD, you need a 2+PE cable, which according to Adam Ries is 3 wires. All protective earth wires of the system have to be brought together in one point which should be the metal plate as seen in the picture above (to which the VFD is screwed with its metal back, the metal plate is usually part of a control cabinet case).
yes, for the wall to VFD, a three prong plug for safe connection to your house earth, and at the other end three loose wires to which you have to crimp connectors. You should not need to solder something. The wire ends are crimped to either ring connectors or wire ferrules (dependent on the type of terminals on the VFD) with matching crimping pliers. Please avoid having the wires (which are stranded wire) without one of both, ring connectors or wire ferrules!
Jay, attempting to wire a spindle and VFD, for which a certified electrician is required, is a serious thing. Please be sure to acquire the knowledge needed before.
Please do follow the links I mentioned above and the links you find there, there is much information there.
Got to leave now! It is 06:59 in Central Europe.
PS: This is now off-topic according to your subject line. Please consider continuing the topic e.g. by joining here.
15 gauge wire isn’t a common gauge wire, 14 is. I use an extension cord and just cut it to the desired length vs making one up for something like this. I didn’t for my VFD since it’s 240v. If you’re in the US go to any hardware store, pay attention to what size wire is in the cord and get one slightly longer than you need and just cut to length. You’ll have a cord with a molded plug on the end. I would use a ferrite bead on the power cord. Chances are that’ll be enough unless you have noisy power at your location. Then an EMI filter would be better.
the EMI filter on the input side of a VFD is to protect the house installation and other electrical devices connected to it from the EMI the VFD produces.
– Source: Omron MX2 User’s Manual
What protects the VFD from power distribution system is the input-side AC reactor:
Dr. Al, Thanks for the suggestions about what to use.
I have a few extension cords and power cables around that I could cut.
The post above my 15gauge post I do not understand in the least what a earth plate is or any of the links it contained.
I am an end user looking for suggestions on what products can be used vs what electrical theory says about my question.
Basically I am no electrician but I am an electronics technician that can follow directions well.
So if others want to share what products work for them and how they accomplished their goals I am all ears.
Many many thanks, just trying to clarify what I understand and that I appreciate all the help I can get.
Thank you all!!
as you can read in the post above, it is recommended to enclose the VFD into a metal enclosure because a VFD produces a lot of EMI. A metal enclosure is able to prevent the EMI spreading around (Faraday cage). That is the same reason why you use a shielded cable for the connection between VFD and spindle: VFDs do not produce nice sine waves, but rather rectangular pulses, and that means electromagnetic dirt. A control cabinet for your VFD looks this way:
You see there is a metal plate in it, on the back. For mounting the VFD, you loosen the metal plate and drill holes into it where your VFD and other accessories (e.g. EMI filter) need holes. After having attached the VFD and the rest you put the metal plate back into the cabinet and connect the earth to it and also all earth wires from other parts of your installation.
On the lower side of the cabinet you see the holes for the cables to mains power, to controller, and to spindle.
Correctly and professionally (=safely) wiring a VFD is at the limit of things end users do (or beyond). As said before, it requires a certified electrian, so if you have the least doubt in being able to acquire the part of knowledge of an electrician that is needed here, I would not attempt to do such things. For end users, there exist CNCs with milling motors that are ready-to-use. A spindle with VFD is not.
Achieving such a task mainly is about safety. Understanding how especially grounding is done is mandatory.
Technically it’s for both. A VFD is susceptible to noise like any other electronic device. Ideally everything in a house/ shop will have shielding to protect against EMI and to stop the device from emitting EMI but we all know that’s not the case.
Here’s a quote from one of the companies that make EMI filters I use: An EMI filter does two things. First, it protects the VFD from high-frequency noise that is being generated by other electrical loads on the power supply. This additional layer of defense minimizes the impact of high-frequency electrical noise—and can help machine builders meet the CE machine directive for filtering. The second core benefit of an EMI filter is that it drains parasitic currents to the ground instead of conducting them back onto the supply cable.
Most people would be surprised by just how many things in their house that emit noise.