Thanks for sharing. Still working on putting mine together. Have until the end of May to decide what to do.
It only took me a few min to remake it so here is the file2x2gridwnumbers.dxf (165.3 KB)repost 2nd try
For some reason your file is getting corrupted when I import it into Carbide Create Pro and Fusion 360. I am completely new to all of this so Iāve actually been playing around with both programs trying to create this same thing. Do you just overlap a bunch of rectangles for the grid lines or can you use lines? I thought I had seen where you couldnāt have open ended vectors.
I reposted a different save. Retry to see if this works. I tried saving as svg but my pc keeps turning it into a webpage.2x2gridwnumbers.dxf (278.5 KB) Okay one last time I uploaded the one with numbers up both sidesā¦I made it both ways.
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I am new too but I think you do a square, then one vertical line, copy/array it, repeat on the horizontal. Shouldnāt be any open vectors. If I am wrong can someone give the correct method. Like I said, I am learning too.
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Thank you, this one opened well in Fusion 360.
Oh, that makes sense. Since the lines connect to the rectangle they create one vector. I appreciate it!
So I found some vector loops in the 6ās on my simulation so I have taken those out in this copy Sry for the back and forth was just trying to throw that together on the fly. 2x2gridwnumbers.dxf (346.2 KB)One note make sure and align the vector to your programs ruler so the measurements come out exactly on zero.
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I am away from my PC right now, what are the dimensions of the square? 32.25x32.25?
No I made this 32x32 exactly. I have the zero position starting in the center of the t-track as this is the actual possible stop for putting material with a clamp there. The 1/8inch difference is split between the slats and the track sizes as this seemed the most practical way of laying that and using track blocks and stops.
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this is what I am thinking of doing. I ordered 6 t tracks. How big are the pdf strips you are using?
How often does one need to replace the mdf strips?
All waste boards are just that, waste boards. That being said, I just about cried the first time I cut into my pristine waste board on my current machine. But, that was almost 3 years ago and I got over it, eventually. Iāve not had to re-surface my waste board at all since I started using my CNC.
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Itās great to see everyoneās set up. Here is my 1st waste board being set up.
Still working on how to generate the G code for the holes and a grid.
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As a fairly new user, Iām nervous about my new t-tracks and threaded inserts in my spoil boards. So far, Iāve only barely etched my spoil boards, but those threaded inserts are only about 5 mm from the cutting surface. Cutting into the spoil board below 5 mm means hitting metal. Iām regretting that.
I watched a video last night where a guy used copper pipe sections in his dog holes and could place cams any place on the cutting area using dog holes. If I destroy my spoil boards, I think Iāll switch to that.
I personally donāt think you T-Track.
I had threaded inserts on my first waste board and almost never used them. I have dog holes for PVC pipe. (@KennyBellew I would use PVC sprinkler pipe instead of copper.) So I just use cam clamps, double sided tape or some screws (I like pocket hole screws personally).
Remember people it is called āWasteboardā reason. it is supposed to waste away and get replaced not be a work of art.
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lol, Iām assuming that your T-track challenge is a typo or something, but I indeed do T-Track.
I like your suggestion of PVC. Thanks.
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I have the QCW frame and the smaller T Track size is a real PIA, so I just started using the blue painters tape and a bead of CA glue method. It works so well that I doubt I will ever use my t-tracks.
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Speaking on behalf of all the OCD / perfectionists out here, whereās the actual fun in that? 
Mineās essentially 1x4ās cut down and milled down to an appropriate size for the Woodworker, stained and subsequently engraved with my grid layout. And I cut deep into it right off / no regerts. 
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The double-sided tape method works. I was initially skeptical but Iāve come to rely almost exclusive on it for woodworking, especially for cutouts. The very moment Joey, the name Iāve given to my Woodworker, said, āHow you doināā by throwing a cutout at me was the very moment I realized that shiny clamps and t-tracks donāt always get the job done. But this double-sided tape, omg! Brilliant stuff.
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+1 on that! The only time I use the tracks and hold downs are when I need to put a keyhole on the back of a piece for hanging and I donāt have enough surface area to do the tape method. Even track clamps that are tightened to gorrilla levels has had a few pieces wobble on me and ruin my project.
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