Help Controlling Router/Vac Auto On with Masso

[Aiph5u (Aiph5u (not affiliated with Onefinity))]

Hey Bill,

I see you have S15000 M3, M8, and T1 M6 in your g-code which should be enough to make it work (I have no personal experience with Elite Series though).

With a Makita hand trim router, none of the spindle “VFD/PWM/STEP/DIR” settings have any meaning, also a Makita router cannot honor any of the speed settings (although you need to set S to a non-zero value) (however a milling motor like this one or this one with their analog speed control interface would work well with PWM mode (if Onefinity finally releases a 43 mm mount!)), and when using a Makita router, the M3/M5 spindle control is implemented only through the Onefinity Elite custom power supply sockets you see here:

Image 1: Elite Series power connections on power supply

On the left you see the U.S. version. Are you sure you have the third separate plug in the lower row connected to a 120 V outlet? Does there come out 120 V on any of the vac/router sockets?

Image 2: Elite Series control cables from CNC controller to power supply

Also as you can read in the document “Troubleshooting: Rail is getting hung, stuck, or out of alignment (x35/x50 machines)”, there are some tips on cable and connector checking, and the Onefinity Elite uses the same type of non-shielded control cables with similar tin-plated Molex/Amphenol connectors and also with same lacking strain relief as the Standard Series, so I would have a look at some defects like these:

and also follow the tips for these:

@OnefinityCNC

Disconnect all wires on the rail that isn’t moving, from controller to motor, triple check all 4 pins inside each connector are present, straight, and leveled with each other. Then reconnect all connections, ensuring they fit very snuggly and 'snap ’ together. Here’s some pictures of a bad wire and a pin pushed in.

To check all of these cables/connectors, after having followed the tips from the manufacturer above which consists of reseating the connectors, inspecting the crimp on their pins, etc., and this leads to no success, I would thoroughly check them this way:

@Aiph5u

To check the cable, I would unplug it on the controller side and on the other end and check all four wires one by one for conductivity between both ends, by using a multimeter set to resistance (ohms). But it could be that you measure that everything is okay because the fault my appear only in certain moments, in certain positions of the cable, when you move it, etc. Usually it’s the motion on a cable that is not made for permanent motion that can make problems after a while, mostly where the individual wire is crimped into the contact, or between the contacts which unfortunately are only tin-plated which means movement and/or corrosion can wear the plating leaving the bare copper open to air which is even more prone to corrosion. In this case, a little amount of KONTAKT 60 and then KONTAKT 61 can help.